UKH

I’m going to Scotland for the first time in Feb and trying to make sure I’m as prepared as possible.

I hadn’t thought much about it until the other day when my climbing partner said my crampons won’t be very suitable. I said they were G12s but I realised now they’re air techs which I understand to be even less suitable. and I accidentally sold some spare g12s awhile  back and regret it now.

id like to get on as many grade III and potentially IV as well. Will the air techs be suitable enough or a bit daft?

I’ve used them lots in wales on grade ii’s and one grade iii and they’ve been okay but I did feel like something more substantial on crib lem would have been appreciated.

I’ve seen the petzl lynx for £170, but I’m a broke student so spending less is always best. They’ll be paired with manta techs.

sorry if it’s a boring/stupid post but some advice would be much appreciated.

G12 would be perfect, Air Techs slightly less perfect but absolutely fine. Its the boots that will let you down if you're moving on to grade IV as they're only a B2.

Thank you, I’ll hold off till next year then. Should have paid more attention when selling the g12’s i was thinking they were identical.

And I guess the fella at Joe browns who sold me the boots was a bit optimistic saying they’d be good for grade V…

Well you could, but it might not be much fun!

My main ice boots until this year were B2 Scarpa Triolet. Yeah OK they might be a touch stiffer than most B2s but I've led WI4+ and seconded V,7 in them. Think you'll be OK. Crampons, same thinking really... I mean they won't be as good as they possibly could be but they're a load better than nails...

Also, it depends what kind of grade III s and IVs you’re on. For steepish ice it’s true Airtechs aren’t the best (though they will work). But on more mixed terrain, eg Cairngorm rock, I’d prefer the shorter spikes of the Airtechs. It’s only at higher grades you’ll notice their limitations. 

My mate has Airtechs - he has climbed V,6 in them with no drama. I have some very similar CT ones and they've been fine to V,5. Shorter points than on the G12s make them better for walking around on scree covered summit plateaus also. 

I seem to remember the late Alan Mullen, asked Grivel to modified G12s, to make them more appropriate for mixed, shorter points, etc. The Air Techs were a result of this.

Not being a sponsored athlete, I also modified my G12s, cut the second row of points at 90° to frontpooints, less chance of walking off holds.

Your skill will restrict your aspirations, more than your Poon's will, enjoy! I've climbed VII in articulated Stubia Tyrols and IIs in monos.

Stuart