Monte Rosa, Großglockner…. And?

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 FockeWulf 11 Oct 2023

After this year’s successful Mont Blanc trip (Gouter Route) and Gran Paradiso - were deciding on the trip for 2024.

We are thinking of doing 3 weeks in the Alps.

My girlfriend wants to do Monte Rosa, I certainly want to try something more technical like Großglockner (guided).., but then wondering what to do for a third mountain?

I was thinking of something we could do on our own. 

Allalinhorn was on the cards, but is anyone familiar with a peak just to the west of Aosta Valley called Tete du Ruitor? 
 

It’s not the most interesting or well known place - but I always see it when we visit and wonder what it’s all about and why it’s not very well known. 

 MG 11 Oct 2023

In reply to MG:

> In reply to FockeWulf

I know Tete du Ruitor, yes. Two access points. Deffeyes hut. Stunning walk up from La Thuile. A rather long glacier plod above, probably better skied . Angeli hut from the other side. Long walk up to a hut with religious overtones. Then a short but interesting scramble up to the summit. A traverse might be good.

Post edited at 10:54
 MG 11 Oct 2023
In reply to FockeWulf:

Also, there is quite lot of Monte Rosa, some easy, some not. And it's all very high.

 wjcdean 11 Oct 2023
In reply to FockeWulf:

durfourspitze (assume this is what you are getting at when you mention monte rosa) is certainly a step up from mont blanc and gran paradiso. I would think this is a good objective. and there's plenty of other peaks in the massif. Castor, Pollux and there's a day trip up to the signalkuppe taking in 4 or 5 x 4000ers.

I think you are best to, instead of looking for a 'third mountain', have a decent idea of perhaps 10 others that you would like to do, then you can pick one based on weather, route conditions and hut availability when you are out there.

 MG 11 Oct 2023
In reply to wjcdean:

> I think you are best to, instead of looking for a 'third mountain', have a decent idea of perhaps 10 others that you would like to do, then you can pick one based on weather, route conditions and hut availability when you are out there.

^This.

Also note huts in the Monte Rosa area are pricey. Much less so into Italy away from the border.

OP FockeWulf 14 Oct 2023
In reply to wjcdean:

It’s a step up in what way?

I assumed MB and DS would be similar 

thanks

 MG 14 Oct 2023
In reply to FockeWulf:

> It’s a step up in what way?

> I assumed MB and DS would be similar 

> thanks

It's about a grade harder technically.The summit is rocky/mixed and a ridge, not a snow dome.

 wjcdean 16 Oct 2023
In reply to FockeWulf:

disclaimer: I haven't climbed the durfourspitze, however i have looked into it a lot as had a plan to climb it via the normale last summer, but unfortunately that plan fell through.

The glacier and snow ridge sections will be similar to mont blanc, however the rock section at the top adds a grade and will certainly require some good alpine ninja rope work. From descriptions the rock section seems quite short, but a lot of people comment that it is much longer than expected, and you also have to descend back the same way.

Nothing too crazy of course, absolutely manageable for mere mortals, but certainly a bit more involved than mont blanc.

alternative response: what @MG said.

 Pero 19 Oct 2023
In reply to FockeWulf:

> It’s a step up in what way?

> I assumed MB and DS would be similar 

> thanks

There's no comparison. MB by the Gouter route is essentially a walk, where you only have to put one foot in front of the other.

Dufourspitze is a full on PD+ rock or mixed Ridge. And, the descent could be problematic.

Never underestimate an Alpine PD+.

 Maarten2 24 Oct 2023
In reply to FockeWulf:

Rimpfishhorn

 Bob Aitken 24 Oct 2023
In reply to Maarten2:

I'd say that the Rimpfischhorn is one of those PD+ routes which as Pero says shouldn't be underestimated - the final rocks on the W/SW ridge are quite steep, and can sometimes be tricky with snow and/or verglas.  From what we know of FockeWulf's progressive alpine history to date, I think it might be wise for him to take a guide if he fancied trying that route.   The Ruitor might well suit better, as long as he has the compass skills to navigate the big icefield under the summit if clag should descend.

 Pero 25 Oct 2023
In reply to Bob Aitken:

> I'd say that the Rimpfischhorn is one of those PD+ routes which as Pero says shouldn't be underestimated - 

And it's a long way from anywhere. You need to be careful of the crevasses on any of the possible glacier approaches. 

 Babika 25 Oct 2023
In reply to FockeWulf:

Definitely recommend Grossglockner - no need for a guide.i did the Studlgrat Ridge which is lovely but the normal is good as well.

How about the Zugspitze via Hollental gorge for a 3rd route? Lots of variety on the ascent and a good hut. Plus a lift down if you want! 

 McHeath 25 Oct 2023
In reply to FockeWulf:

Instead of hopping between widely separated areas, why don´t you do a 1 week group course on basic Alpine skills somewhere? You´ll learn everything you need to know to allow you to tackle bigger objectives without a guide - crampon and ice axe technique, crevasse rescue (we got to jump into crevasses a couple of times and to pull our friends out), navigation, ropework, the lot ... I did one in the early 90s and it set me up for independent mountaineering. We had 2 guides/instructors for 6 of us, and got to do quite a few summits in the Stubai during the 5 days.


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