Iceland - summer mountaineering

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 echo34 24 Feb 2022

I’ve been looking into a trip to Iceland, I’m potentially interested in doing some mountaineering/alpine style day routes or some scrambling. I couldnt really find much information on any routes or and guidebooks for that sort of thing in the area. 
 

are there any recommendations for routes/areas and guidebooks etc? Would there be enough to do for a week?

 McHeath 24 Feb 2022
In reply to echo34:

According to this article there's loads to do, but no mountaineering guidebooks mentioned; it suggests contacting local guides for alpine advice:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/iceland_-_not_just_for_gey...

 Mark Bull 24 Feb 2022
In reply to echo34:

Iceland isn't really a noted destination for this sort of thing. Rock that is not horrid crumbly choss is in very short supply! There are some summer alpine routes, mainly on glaciated peaks in the interior, but few of these are easily accessible as day trips. There is some interesting adventurous hillwalking, for example in the mountains around Akureyri (which are better known for spring ski touring), but the terrain is largely non-technical (i.e. steep grass, boulder fields, broken rocks and snowfields). 

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 Rharrison 24 Feb 2022
In reply to echo34:

Plenty to do on the peaks around Skaftafell in the southeast though as noted above rock quality isn't great. most alpine routes are snow and ice routes which would be in condition in late winter/spring rather than summer. Some mountains to look at:

Þumall & Vestrahorn (rock)

Hrútfjallstindar, Þverártindsegg, Hvannadalshnúkur (alpine).

No guidebook, but alpine and winter routes are recorded on isalp.is and rock routes at klifur.is

 Solaris 02 Mar 2022
In reply to echo34:

As others have said, Iceland isn't really an (alpine) climbing venue – at least, not in the sense that it'd be a prime choice to compare with, say, the Alps.

But as others have also said, there is climbing to be done – though whether it'd be worth a trip for the cragging alone is, in my view doubtful: there are far better and, more committing and gnarlier things to do in the country. But I suppose it could be worth packing rock shoes for some bouldering, if the weather is good enough.

The alpine climbing prospects are genuine but the glaciers are either pretty easy or they are dangerous. I don't think there's much in between, as there is in the alps. Also, it could be tricky finding a suitable combination of season and good weather window, though Doug Scott did some difficult exploratory routes on Vatnajökull. There is quite a useful guide to walking/mountaineering in Iceland, including a few alpine routes up to ca. PD/AD. See Ari Trausti Guðmundsson, Summit: 100 Mountain Hikes in Iceland (Uppheimar, 2012). Some of the best routes are remote and inaccessible.

Scrambling? The rock is generally far too unreliable. What looks like Gritstone is Palagonite, which has about as much in common with grit as chalk.


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