Dyrhaugstinden to Skagastølsbu ridge traverse.

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 d_b 17 Jul 2023

I'm planning to go to Hurrungane in September, and am considering linking up Store Dryhaugstinden and Storen with a night at or near the skagastølsbu shelter.

The James Baxter Hurrungane guide briefly mentions the ridge as a possible ascent route for Dryhaugstinden but gives no real indication of character or difficulty. Has anyone around here done it, and if so is it a sensible descent option?

OP d_b 17 Jul 2023
In reply to d_b:

It's Dyrhaugstinden of course. I mistyped it once and now my phone autocorrects every time...

 Aigen 21 Jul 2023
In reply to d_b:

You should ask Bjergen Kjergen. 

youtube.com/watch?v=E4_NAjDf8Ck&t=20

 wbo2 21 Jul 2023
In reply to d_b: which ridge going which way?

OP d_b 21 Jul 2023
In reply to wbo2:

I'm traveling and away from my guidebook and maps, so can give more precise information in about a week.

Roughly what we had in mind was to go up dyrhaugstinden from the north by the standard route, then carry on south east to the shelter at the col under Storen. We would attempt Storen the next day 

The section I was particularly interested in was the descent to the col. The guidebook mentions it as a possible ascent route for dyrhaugstinden but doesn't say anything about technical difficulty.

I'm confident I can do it one way or another but would like to know if I'm going to be scrambling, graded down climbing or abseiling.

 GarethSL 21 Jul 2023
In reply to d_b:

Its n4 or 5+ climbing up there so a couple of abseils if going the other way.

I’ll dig out the topo later

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sore_dyrhaugstind-21257/

OP d_b 21 Jul 2023
In reply to GarethSL:

That's brilliant. Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!

 GarethSL 22 Jul 2023
In reply to d_b:

This is the topo for the climb from the col (fra bandet) and the harder variations.

This climbs directly up the ridge and should be pretty easy to follow a similar line down.

The descent for all of the climbs here is described as by abseil down this route (or back north over the ridge) in the guidebook, so there may will be tat or even nuts/chain anchors (as on the neighbouring Skagastolsryggen).

The guide however offers no info as to where these are.

The pitches are 30-40m so it is likely that the abseils are set up for 50m doubles and follow close to each pitch. I did a quick mooch in Norwegian but only found that its easy to find belays and that descending the route is an option, I guess mostly because people climb it then return over the ridge.

As an alternative you could do Skagastolsryggen and north side of Støren on day one, to a bivvy at bandet, then climb Dyrehaugstind via any of the routes from bandet and go north over the ridge.

Post edited at 08:15

OP d_b 22 Jul 2023
In reply to GarethSL:

I think your alternative suggestion is probably more sensible than trying to do this blind from above. 

Which guidebook did the topo come from? We will be passing through Voss on the way and I know it has plenty of outdoor shops so we might try to get a copy.

 GarethSL 23 Jul 2023
In reply to d_b:

Its from the Kalatrefører for Jotunheimen guide from the NTK (Norwegian Alpine Club). Its in Norwegian only but is a very nice book and relatively easy to understand.

https://www.vpg.no/Klatrefoerer-Jotunheimen/109560/

if you cant pick it up on the way it should certainly be available at Turtagrø.


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