"Climbing the 14 8000ers has only statistical value"

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 SNC 27 Jun 2023

An interesting read, courtesy Ed Douglas and others on Twitter.
https://www.mozgasvilag.hu/hirek/climbing-the-14-8000ers-has-only-statistic...

I hadn't realised how detailed people get in the verification of photos etc.  I wouldn't particularly argue with the points made.

Removed User 27 Jun 2023
In reply to SNC:

I bet Alan Hinkes is in bother.

 Damo 27 Jun 2023
In reply to Removed User:

> I bet Alan Hinkes is in bother.

Well, whether he cared or not, Hinkes was always off any 'official' list of 14x8K finishers, because Hawley never validated his Cho Oyu summit. Back then there were issues with people stopping on the plateau, not quite making the bump that is (allegedly) the actual top.

With the passing of the years (and as one of the people mentioned in that article above for related writings) I reckon Hinkes got a bum deal. Without getting into the whole Manaslu thing, which I'm done with, other climbers who were unsure about where they were on Cho Oyu, or admitted they didn't stand on that particular bump, still had their summit accepted by Ms Hawley. Denis Urubko and his mate are a notable example of that, after their incredible (insane?) new route up the south face, they 'summited' in the dark, in poor viz, and Denis freely admitted they weren't sure they were on top.

Only recently with Jurgalski's 'shrink list' of revised 14x8K finishers, has Denis' Cho Oyu summit been set aside. So I think Hinkes deserves to feel dudded, if he does, as I'm sure many guided clients and Sherpas never made it to the 'right' bump up there either. As we found with Manaslu, the legendary sharpness of Ms H was not sharp for everything, it depended, and there are plenty of gaps and errors in the HDB records.

Anyway, that article linked above is an excellent summary of the scene as it has become in recent years, and does a good job of explaining why all these issues matter, at least in a climbing sense.

 critter 28 Jun 2023
In reply to SNC:

Excellent article, definitely worth the time to read in full.

In complete agreement, as I'm sure most people on this forum would be.

 Derry 28 Jun 2023
In reply to SNC:

A great article and worth the long read. I have to admit I had no idea who Kristin Harila was when she appeared on the scene, guessing (incorrectly) that she'd been at the cutting edge of climbing but flying under the radar. 

I have to admit I don't always stand right on the top of some peaks with the thought; "well I'm here, what does the extra 1 metre really count for?". And the answer is not a lot as I know I could stand up there, but I'm not climbing for anyone else except me. The scenes of Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa make me laugh with people queuing to take a selfie from the very top. 

My (non climbing) in-laws have asked in the past, would I ever have a crack at Everest, to which I have to explain how climbing a nice 6000 or 7000m peak would be much more appealing to me, being away from crowds and the 'noise'

 Brass Nipples 28 Jun 2023
In reply to SNC:

With Messner he mentioned both bottled oxygen, then in next sentence supplementary oxygen. Is there a difference?

 Damo 29 Jun 2023
In reply to Brass Nipples:

No


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