UKH

Off to the Alps after a very, very long gap.  Can hardly wait.  I was hoping to start with the Aiguille Du Tour but have just noticed that in a guide I have it mentions a possible 50 m abseil to descend the bergschrund.

I was intending to take my 30m rope which would be suitable for crevasse rescue and scrambling.  Do I need to go out and buy myself two 50m ropes to descend?  Has anyone done this route in the last month or so?

Thanks for any guidance you can offer.

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/chamonix-conditions

07/07/23:  "Le Tour: There are a few bits of névé on the way to the refuge, but these are not a problem for most hikers! It's the end for the Migot spur: the last attempts failed at the rimaye.The Forbes Arête is still in decent condition. The rimaye at Col Adam Reilly is in bad shape. Nothing to report on other routes."

30/06/23: "Le Tour:Not much has changed around here. As far as the access path is concerned, there are still one or two névés coming from Charamillon and then the snow slope below the refuge. Above the refuge, you run into snow fairly quickly. The Col Supérieur du Tour is still easy. Two rockslides on the S face of the Aiguille du Purtscheller cut off the normal route to the Aiguille du Tour (a route around the area has since been redone). These rockslides do not affect the Purtscheller S ridge. Still a lot of people on the classics (Aiguille du Tour via the Table ridge and the normal route, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche). The Forbes arête is still being climbed. The Migot spur is drying out more and more (rock falls in the lower section). The descent couloir is still covered in snow. The abseils start above the col Adams Reilly. The glacier below is still passable."

Are you sure you're not confusing the Aiguille du Tour with the Chardonnet? There is a 50m abseil on the descent of the Bergschrund there. Although, also possible with an alternative 25m abseil. We did yesterday. The Chardonnet, not the Tour.

In terms of a month from now, it's best to check conditions on anything you plan to do. It's baking hot here and things round Chamonix may deteriorate significantly during July.

Welcome to the Alps in the age of global warming.

I have not descended this route this year but I have never come across an abseil descent being required on either of the main descent routes on the Aiguille de Tour, especially the most commonly used one. For the most up to date information speak to the OHM, contact details below:

https://www.chamoniarde.com/en/our-actions/information-ohm

    I personally would question whether a 30 metre rope is sufficient for crevasse rescue however.

Did it on Sunday, descent pretty straightforward, no abseil required.

If the party from Inverness  we met want them, I've got some pictures of the top part of the ridge with them having breakfast on the table

Thanks everyone, just the clarity I was after.  It did seem pretty surprising when I read about a 50 m abseil.  Travelling down on Saturday the 15th, hoping to do the climb early next week so hopefully not too much will have melted by then!

Hi,

That party was us... Hope you enjoyed the rest of the route! Would love those pics, it was a great place for a snack

I've sent you an email via the site. I think you have to respond for me to be able to send the photos.