UKH

Hi, 

I'm planning to go to the envers for a bit then the requin hut for a night or two. Wondering if its a mad idea to consider going from the Requin hut up the glacier D'Envers du plan to join the end of the midi plan traverse in the col superior du plan. I'm aware that the glacier is heavily crevassed. Wondering what the realistic chances of picking a way through, crossing the bergrschrund and climbing the steep slope to join the ridge would likely be at the start of July.

If it's mad I'll probably just walk up the classic ski descent to join the traverse but fancy something a bit spicier to keep it interesting.

Struggling to find info online but from pictures i can find that people have taken on the ridge, photos of the glacier and slope angles given on FatMaps i'm feeling keen to give it a look 👀

Thirty five years ago, a mate and I left the car in a Chamonix back street, flogged up the hillside to Montenvers, walked up the Mer du Glace in a thunderstorm to the Requin hut and the following morning, climbed the south east face of the Col Superior du Plan and then along to the Aiguille du Midi.  So yes, it can be done.

Or rather, it could.  Snow conditions now are not necessarily what they once were.  The angles will be as they were though and I recall being glad I had two ice tools when the face steepened; it's nowhere extreme, but having two tools was a comfort*.

The main problem we had was lower down, at the bergschrund.  We were there in late August and there was only one snowbridge left across it, and it didn't inspire confidence.  We took some brave pills washed down with caution and got across ok, and had we not wanted to chance it I daresay we'd have been able to get through at the edge of the glacier, but there's a reason the memory of the episode has stayed with me.  In your position, I'd be seeking a bit of beta about that.

Otherwise, back in the day, it was perfectly fine.  Of course this doesn't mean it will be the same way for you and you must exercise your own judgement rather than relying on an anecdote from a 60-year old about what he once did on his holidays.

T.

* No sniggering at the back please.

Isn't this the descent route after the Midi-Plan?
We descended to the Requin from the col, though it was back in 1983.
Seemed straightforward then, though very soft late in the day. And it was 40 years ago!
 

I've descended that way to the Requin after the midi-plan traverse. It was a few years ago now (2006-ish) and conditions might have changed a fair bit. Don't remember it being particularly steep or technical but I can definitely remember it being pretty scary from an objective danger perspective late in the day. I was quite green to the Alps back then and was pretty glad to get to the hut. Red wine was drunk

Tony thank you very much for the info, this is as i had hoped. Sounds like you had a good adventure! 

This is exactly that route. Good to know it felt straightforward. This again is the reassurance i was hoping for

Sounds like the only way to end a good day in the alps! I'll be sure to be travelling up early to gain the ridge

Thanks to all! Some very good info to plan off.

I'll be sure to make enquiries at the hut for some more current info on the route but nice to hear the route doesn't appear to have any hidden danger that wasn't on my radar.

I have not been to this particular area myself and planning on a computer in my living room has not bested first hand experience for me yet, so thanks again!