UKH

Hi everyone, 

I am wanting to do the mittellegi ridge at some point over the next couple of years, to anyone who has done it already I have a few questions.

-What climbing resume did you build up before hand, across the alps and the uk?

-At which point did you know you were ready? 

- Were there any useful guidebooks/ information you would recommend? 

-What further advice would you give? 
 

thanks people! 

I have done it, but I'm not sure my response will be particularly helpful:

It was one of a number of alpine climbs I did that season, and sticks out in my memory only because I was on the summit less than 24h after getting off a plane from a summer spent working in the US. Other than that, it's not a particularly special route. It's definitely not a beginner alpine climb but it's a popular route with easy access and a well situated hut. At that point I had been living in Switzerland for two years and it was not especially hard.

Like all alpine routes of this type, the key is to be able to move quickly with your partner. If you waste 10 minutes every time you need to do a direct belay or switch gear it will be a very long day. The descent past the Monch takes a while and the aim is probably to get to Jungfraujoch before the last train so you can't hang around. I guess some people also descend the west flank, I can't comment on that.

Another specific point is that the approach to the hut is a bit sketchy, with poorly protected loose slab climbing. But it's very easy so you just need confidence. And I remember the descent onto the receded glacier required a jump, though that will be different next year I'm sure.

Or you could do the full ridge intégrale.

Out of interest, why this route specifically? It's less than 4000m and you get to climb right next to the world famous north face without ever seeing it. Not that it's a bad route in any way, but of things to get excited about that wouldn't top my list.

I'd be a more positive than Suncream about the quality of the route. It's a sharp.rocky crest, steep with excellent views each side.

A long time since I did it but you will want to have done a couple of reasonable ADs in guidebook time first. Leading UK severe in terms of rock climbing.

Check any up to date guide for the approach. The route it self is basically "go up". Getting down is more.complex.and probably more challenging overall than getting up.

It might be the 'Eiger', but grade for grade it's no different to any other alpine peak. Just factor in what "you've" done elsewhere of a similar grade and height, plus the variables of some hills being practically road/telepherique side, or those being more committing.

Generally if you have to ask, then the answer is you want or need more mileage. Experience and efficiency is key to any alpine route, there are no substitutes to mileage beyond hiring a guide. 

We did the Mittellegi Integrale over 3 days. Its still one the best adventures I've ever had.

To be really direct to your questions

- I'd probably nudged into E1 at the time, but I don't think any further. I did it when I was in my mid-20s after getting back into climbing, and was at a stage where I was ridiculously enthusiastic, probably blasé with dealing with and more importantly properly understanding risk. I wouldn't say I was experienced at the time in terms of climbing CV and it was on my first trip to the alps. Technically it was my first alp I got to the summit of. So on paper probably unqualified. What I did have, was a childhood and early teenage years spent getting dragged up every mountain and crag in the UK by parents. This meant I'd had a very good education in moving fast on easier ground and dealing with exposure. Couple that with the enthusiasm/ risk bit and that's how we ended up on the Eiger.

-With hindsight (a wonderful thing), we weren't really ready/experienced enough, but you do learn a lot by going for things when you're not quite ready, its just not always a positive experience. The older I get, the more experienced I get, but also the more risk averse I get. 

- We took a photo of a german guidebook whilst in the climbing shop, rang my climbing partner's german girlfriend to translate it, and wrote the translation on a postcard. I'd recommend scouring the internet for as much info as you can glean. Route finding was ok, but with our minimalist topo we did get off route a few times.

- Wait for a good weather window and be acclimatised. We were lucky in that we had both. For me, adventures are best when they are right on that line of just achievable. If you climb a 6b when you can climb 7a its no big deal, if you can climb 6b when you can only climb 6a+ its the best day out ever. If you are looking at the mittellegi, putting in the time on rock and ice to get fit, like a big adventure, then you're doing all the right things so why not go for it.