UKH

Hi all, as in the subject.

I’ve done Mittelegi, Zmutt would be nice, any other similar routes you could recommend?

This is about an alpine ridge, ending on a ~4000 summit, not an alpine rock climb in tight rock shoes (although I like those, too!). 
 

In reply to alps_p: How about the Schreckhorn / Lauteraarhorn traverse? It might be D or D+, and it’s got a big reputation  

In reply to Ed Saint:

Taesch-Dom.traverse?

Schaligrat, Weisshorn?

Montandayne-Picollo-Gran Paradise traverse?

I've only done the last of these.

In reply to alps_p:

If its pure rock you're after these are few and far between, with the Lagginhorn, Schreckhorn and Zinal Rothorn the stand outs. 

But there are quite a few others that are predominately rock with some snow or mixed sections (depending on conditions), such as the Alphubel  (N Ridge only), Dent Blanche, Rimpfischhorn, Taschhorn and Wiesshorn .

The Martin Moran guide ('The 4000m peaks of the Alps'), sets out all of your options on these peaks (although many of the best or most classic options are only AD), but happy to discuss in more detail as I'll probs be out there in September looking to do the same sortta thing..

Just a note on the Zmutt Ridge; its very prone to rock fall late in the season  so typically needs upper snow cover for it to be safe.

John C

In reply to alps_p:

Arete du Diable on Mont Blanc du Tacul?

In reply to alps_p:

Thanks all for replying. I’ll check out all of these. I do have the 4000m peaks book, as well as some German language guidebooks (“Westalpen”/“Ostalpen”)

In reply to alps_p:

When people say Schreckhorn, it’s the SW ridge I should be looking at? (Also Appreciate the tip to combine Schreckhorn with another peak for an even harder climb)

In reply to alps_p:

yep, the SW Ridge is the AD+ classic or standard ascent/descent route. (Note, there are some abseils in descent, and other parties can cause rockfall...)

Better still is the South Pillar (D+). I've not done it, but it does have a bit of a reputation for complicated route finding.

JC 

In reply to alps_p:

have done the schreckhorn normale with a guide, would recommend. we intended to do the full traverse over to the lauteraarhorn but the weather scuppered us. apparently the descent from lauter... can be a bit tricky to locate or follow or something.

traverse of the jorasses? I also did with a guide and found it mostly stressful, but maybe your mettle is greater than mine.

tasch-dom traverse is supposed to be excellent. note that it's difficile though all the technical difficulties are low grade... you do the maths.

Weisshorn traverse is surely the place for a big wild Difficile  though...???

In reply to alps_p:

The north ridge of the Weismeis, and te lenspitze-nadelhorn traverse both fit the bill, with short sections of cramponning near the summit.

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:> The north ridge of the Weismeis, and te lenspitze-nadelhorn traverse both fit the bill, with short sections of cramponning near the summit.

I heard descent off the Nadlehorn was fine with only one pair of crampons in the team, can you confirm?

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Yes, as long as there is only one in the team.