UKH

This is an appeal to the group of climbers who were at Balgone Heughs last Sunday, 6th Aug.

Balgone Heughs

I don't know who they were but understand that they were fellow Glaswegians who'd travelled through for the day. Unfortunately, the usual crag etiquette was not being followed, to the annoyance not only of other climbers but also of the landowner / estate manager. Someone from the group parking selfishly and inconsiderately at the field gate didn't help matters, but the general selfish attitude displayed by excessive noise being created and the disturbance to the picnic area just below the crag did nobody any favours. As a result, the picnic table has now been removed; also this isn't an acceptable place to doss overnight, which has apparently been happening on occasion.

Access to Balgone and the tacit agreement to equip the crags has reached a delicate state of equilibrium so anything which jeopardises this situation really must be avoided. The crag isn't a private playground for individuals to trash at will and behave anti-socially. Whilst I'm a big dog lover, this isn't a crag to have dogs wandering about off-leash right at the base (large lumps or rock are still coming off regularly) or barking incessantly to the annoyance of other climbers and park-users. We all have to be much more considerate of the estate and members of the public who share this great amenity to which we currently enjoy access.

This issue has apparently been raised elsewhere already on social media but if you know who the group members were, could you please alert them to this request to behave better on future visits and show more respect and consideration to the estate, members of the public and fellow climbers. It won't take much to tip things over the edge and have our climbing privileges rescinded, thanks.

Hi Frazer,

I met the group that you mentioned; friends of friends. I came earlier that day with a different car and my impression is that the whole situation isn't painted fairly towards us/them. Now, I'm not omnipresent, so this is just a report of my experience:

- the table: I was at the table with my friends and yes, we had lunch on it (we camped on the beach the night before). However, my friends and I do respect other people's properties. Before leaving we cleaned up and made sure that the table area was as clean and tidy as we found it. 

- the dog: with the intention of not having her running around the crag, the little one spent the whole day by the table area ( away from climbers, with the person responsible for it ( who wasn't climbing). She only came to the crag for a veeeery short period of time later in the day. She did bark here and there but this seems like a bigger deal than what it is. (I had much worse situations at other crags).  I wasn't at the table during the afternoon but knowing the girl that was dog-sitting her I'm sure she was being mindful of other people at all times.

- the crag: it was a very busy day, there were many parties; some quieter than others. I do appreciate some quiet down on the ground when I'm climbing and I also find stressful an overcrowded crag but sometimes that's how it goes ( especially at crags that facilitate both beginner and intermediate climbers; people come with different approaches to the sport). I personally didn't find anyone excessively loud or disrespectful of others. To my eyes, it was just a busy weekend at a crag that it's recently exploding in popularity  

In my opinion, parking the car selfishly and inconsiderably was the only real mistake made by the group for which I heard the driver deeply apologised to the farmer (doesn't excuse them, I know). I'm sure that won't happen again. My personal impression is that that was the straw that broke the camel's back.

Lastly, I understand that what happened caused distress to the owner of the land. I can't speak for others but I hope we all be mindful and respectful of everyone, and those in the position of educating new climbers will do it keeping that in mind. I agree with what you say, we all have to be much more considerate of the estate and members of the public who share this great amenity to which we currently enjoy access.

The group of climbers is aware of the situation. However, I'm speaking for myself only, here. 

I'm sorry if bolters/climbers had to deal with the owners themselves in regard to this matter.

Thank you.

Peace,

Luca

On a completely unrelated note - was it dry on sunday? 

Thanks Luca, we spoke briefly at the crag last time I believe but appreciate your comments here and having spoken to or passed on word to the group in question.

The main point for us all to take away from this is to be very mindful, particularly at this harvest time of year,  we don't do anything to ruffle any feathers. It might be a wise precaution for us all to park up the main road a bit in the lay-by to allow the combine harvester into and out of the fields.

Is that the W3W location mentioned in the Approach Notes (https://w3w.co/scars.hopes.cork), or somewhere else? 

Yep, that's the one.  It's a proper lay-by so no issue with parking there. Drop someone off at the field gate with the sacks, ditch the car up there and trot back.

In reply to Garethza:

This was a couple of weeks back now,  so I'm not sure what it was like 2 days ago, sorry. I think it might have been a bit damp although there were some routes logged here on 13th so some lines were climbable. 

Great, thank you! The Approach Notes could perhaps be made clearer - let me know if you would like me to try to improve them.