UKC

Two ropes, one rack, and some very poor craic - Our Lakeland Classic Rock Round

© Jenny Moore

The Lakeland Classic Rock Round is 34 miles and 4300m of ascent, with 15 rock routes totalling 70 pitches of climbing. It has been completed by several teams over the years, predominantly men, but in 2021 Julie Carter and Mandy Glanvill were the first known female team to complete it, doing so over four days. 

After reading up on their route I became convinced that I wanted to complete it too, preferably with another female companion and in three days. Jump forward two years, one rained off attempt and a change of climbing partner and here we are.


The rain spattered a melancholy tune on the tent as our alarms sprung into action at 3:30am. Damn it. We've come this far, please weather, don't turn against us now. That was the start of day three.  

Day one:

Day one began with an adrenaline-filled 4am wake up, a quick cup of coffee for Laura, and a decaf tea for me. We struggled into clothes, and packed ourselves into the car, and Ross - Laura's partner - drove the forty-five minutes to Walna Scar car park. We arrived just as the sun was creeping over the horizon. It was set to be a glorious day.

Laura and Jenny, 5am on Day 1 of the round, Walna Scar carpark  © Jenny Moore
Laura and Jenny, 5am on Day 1 of the round, Walna Scar carpark
© Jenny Moore

Donning our packs and poles, we set off up the bridleway to Dow Crag, reaching its majestic walls just as they turned from rosy pink to a fresh, glowing gold. Buzzing with excitement, we had a little boogie next to the stretcher box before I took the first lead. We'd both done Murray's Route (S 4a) a couple of years ago, we knew what to expect, and it was a lovely way to start the round. Moving quickly through the inviting cracks and juggy traverse, the going felt good. Enjoyable, classic, Lakeland climbing.

We topped out in good time and descended back to the stretcher box before traversing round to Goats Hawse and continuing the long schlep over to Langdale. We paused for a break at Wrynose Pass. 

The midday sun was now beginning to hit us. We filled up our water bottles with a water filter (thanks parents!) and set off directly up the hellish, bracken-covered scree to Gimmer Crag

Depleted. That is how I would describe us as we sought out shade beneath Ash Tree Slabs (VD).

A quick bite to eat, and a huge glug of water then Laura smashed out a 45m pitch to do Ash Tree Slabs in a one-er, describing it as 'a bit bolder than expected'. We then traversed along the grassy ledges and dropped down to Bracket and Slab Climb (VS 4b).

Our first harder route of the round, Laura staked her claim on the Bracket and gave it full beans. With a ninja-like stance she skirted over it, making it look easy! It might be worth mentioning at this point, that neither myself nor Laura climb much harder than VS, maybe HVS on a really good day.

We continued on up the slab, through the chimney, both of us desperate for a drink in the sweltering heat but appreciating the grippy nature of rhyolite. After topping out, we abbed back down to the ledges and - after an initial haul up on the first hollow flake - weaved our way up 'C' Route (S 4b).

Running it in a single pitch proved a great choice for time, less so for rope drag, and by the top I found myself lugging a very heavy rope. The route, as with all those routes up the front of Gimmer, meanders around quite a bit, much to Laura's confusion, as the route she thought was 'C' Route turned out to be a direct eliminate of 'A' route.

3:30pm and we'd topped out on Gimmer. Four routes down, one left for the day. Feeling good but a bit roasted, we headed round the tops to Rosset Pike. 

I had a line in mind to take from here, but having never recce-d it, it was pure guesswork. Luckily, there was a pretty decent sheep trod that seemed to follow a traversing line, although by this point we were both parched. "If we don't find any water soon I'm going to cry", Laura said. 

Beginning to think all hope was lost, it felt like a minor miracle when we rounded a small crest to hear a trickle coming from ahead. Relief flooded through us both as we indulged in the fresh water, any thoughts of contamination from higher up were forgotten as we guzzled avidly, filling our hats and bottles.

Laura seconding the final pitch of Tophet Wall, on the second day  © Jenny Moore
Laura seconding the final pitch of Tophet Wall, on the second day

Hydration achieved we continued on up the scree to Bowfell Buttress (HS 4b), a little surprised to see another team climbing the direct line (E2), we were extremely relieved to find this wasn't the one we'd be following! Ready to be done with the day, we started up Bowfell.

Whilst I'd been prepped for a tricky broken crack as the crux, nobody mentioned the super polished chimney that you had to conquer first. Chimneys are not my forte, and it took all I had to thrutch progressively higher until I was able to reach the jug that sat temptingly at the top.

I reckon a taller person could maybe reach this from the bottom stance, but unfortunately height isn't a strength of mine! In comparison to this, the crux didn't feel too bad, a couple of steep moves on small but positive holds, with solid gear, and - in an hour and a half - it was over. A new route for us both, and an enjoyable one too!

As I sat at the top of the 6th pitch belaying Laura up through it, I heard the familiar call of Chris and Ross coming from the top. Hooray! The support squad was here! Immediately everything felt easier, and the energy they brought cascaded through us as we wandered over to Esk Hause to camp. Food inhaled, baby-wipe-wash done, and we were in bed by 11:45pm. 

Day two:

5:30am saw our alarms going, and after a luxurious breakfast of granola, evaporated milk, and brioche buns, we got a good stride on over Scafell Pike to Scafell Crag

Onto Jone's Route Direct from Lord's Rake (HS 4b) and the brilliant traversing pitch that starts it off. Here we were joined by a team who were simul-climbing on a twenty-four hour round attempt. Annoyingly, somewhere along the line their rope managed to weave its way between our two so after a very smooth lead from Laura I ended up faffing around untying one of my ropes halfway along said beautiful traverse, to stop us all getting tangled. I headed up through the broken flakes and passed over to Laura again who smashed out a balance-y move around the arete and ploughed on up to the top.

Having done Jones' Route the previous weekend, we'd noticed a possible ab line straight down to the ledges from the top. With a lot of encouragement from Laura I threw the ropes, wary that they might not reach. I edged down and with a thankful shout yelled up to Laura, "All good, there's plenty!"

Pleased that we'd shaved an hour or so off our time we headed on over toMoss Ghyll Grooves (VS 4c) where Laura was pleasantly surprised to come across some friends. The pleasantries continued as we knew they'd fly up the route in front of us. Moss Ghyll grooves is such an amazing climb in an incredible location. The airiness, lookout belay, and bomber gear make it a beauty to climb. The delicate moves of the slab feel safe, tucked into the corner, in comparison to the other intimidating routes on this face.

We descended via Broad Stand and, for the second time that day, summited England's tallest mountain, taking a picture for an American family's 'memory wall' as we did so. Dodging a microwave-sized block that someone trundled down from the top of corridor route, we got a bit of a jog on and were spotted by a binoculared Steve - possibly our biggest fan - just as I rolled an ankle.

Jenny making her way along the Corridor route  © Jenny Moore
Jenny making her way along the Corridor route
© Jenny Moore

A couple of minutes breather and the ankle felt good to go, and we went on to meet Steve and Jamie, Laura's brother, at Styhead Tarn. They plied us with the world's biggest sausage rolls and topped up our water. Steve completed his paparazzi duties and cheered us on up to Napes. Tophet Wall (HS 4b) loomed. We had built this up over the last thirty hours, knowing it was going to be the hardest route of the round.

The pressure hit me hard and that, combined with what felt like extremely bold sections on the first pitch, had me sobbing uncontrollably until I reached the belay. Chris was a saving grace, soloing up the side and meeting me on a ledge for a consoling cuddle, telling me I'd got this.

Pull it together, come on. 

I reached the spike belay, slung a sling and yelled I was safe. Laura sucked in every ounce of fear she had, knowing I was in a bad way, and cruised along the traverse. Laura hates traversing. On reaching her I felt a bit better and the final pitch felt much easier than when I'd previously climbed it, I even felt a little confidence seep in as I swung around onto the pinnacle, but abbing down into the gully I felt drained.

Jenny seconding the Traverse on Tophet Wall  © Jenny Moore
Jenny seconding the Traverse on Tophet Wall
© Jenny Moore

Onto The Needle. I lead The Wasdale Crack (HS 4c) without much struggle, teetering up the sides of the wide crack on positive holds, before Laura made light work of the cruxy top. We left a comforting Rock 3 at the top as we descended (a little present for the next party to do the route) and then simul-climbed Needle Ridge (VD), topping out around 8pm.

Traversing around to the main Great Gable path we rejoined our ever-supportive tent carriers to hear the crushing news that the weather forecast had once again changed and now rain was forecast from 5am the following morning. Debating our options as we walked along to Pillar, we eventually decided to get bikes dropped off at Honister and be up at 3:30am to try and complete the crux of Rib and Slab Climb (HS 4b) before the rain truly came in. Food in bed and asleep by 11:30pm.

Jenny at the top of Needle Ridge  © Jenny Moore
Jenny at the top of Needle Ridge
© Jenny Moore

Day three:

At 2am I woke up, struggling to find a good temperature, I lay awake, pondering options for the day ahead. At 3:25am the patter of rain began. Really?! From the other tent came Laura's voice:

"What shall I do? Am I getting dressed or going back to sleep?"

"Get dressed and we'll walk in" I replied.

With a lot of willpower, and some carefully chosen encouragement from Chris, we set off up the Shamrock Traverse, the rain a constant for the entirety of the walk in. Arriving at the bottom of New West Climb (VD) I was feeling a bit better and decided we would regret not having a go.

I racked up and Laura put me on belay. We did New West Climb in three pitches, with Chris getting brought up on the free end of rope. I led all three pitches, which were damp but doable. There was a cruxy, steep chimney section which I imagine has some nice smears when dry, but which felt a little tricky on slimy holds.

At the top Chris asked what thoughts were on Rib and Slab Climb (HS 4b). Having spent the whole way up going back and forth on what would be best, I had come to a decision. "Let's leave it and get the rest of the round done." Laura agreed. Chris expressed his concerns, but we reassured him that the route was far too wet, and would make finishing the rest of the round a near impossible challenge.

Back down at camp we had a bit of breakfast and a hot chocolate before packing our bags and heading around the long traversing path to Brandreth. Chatting as we went, we made good time and met my Mum and Dad just over the summit for a snack and drink. This little boost had us trotting over to Gillercombe and, after a slight error in judgement involving a little more uphill than necessary, we were stood at the base of Gillercombe Buttress (S 4a).

Laura racked up and got on the first pitch. We soon shook off some guys who had followed us (presuming they went the wrong way) and, having perfected our belay changeover by this point, we didn't take long to reach the summit.

Here the chirpy face of Rosie - who was originally going to be my partner for the round - popped out, offering snacks and energy. We followed the Bob Graham route into Honister and had a brief sit, sipping coke and chomping on pizzas, before hopping onto the bikes. Laura had never ridden a road bike with drop bars before, so a baptism of fire ensued as we careered down Honister pass. Within twenty minutes we were riding over the bridge into Grange to be met by Laura's parents and brother. They fuelled us up once more and we hopped back on the bikes through to the track end that heads up to Black Crag (Borrowdale)

The walk into Black Crag was horrendous. Clammy, sweaty, flies everywhere. We arrived drenched. A thunderstorm was brewing. Linking together pitches on Troutdale Pinnacle (S) we topped out in just over two hours. Laura's leg was shaking so much on the traverse that the gear on her harness began to jangle, and when I pulled through the steep final pitch, I let out a full power-grunt.

Speed definitely trumped style. We looked at one another at the top, both grinning, "One left, I think we're going to do it!" said Laura.

As we walked to Shepherd's we became the pied pipers of Borrowdale Valley; friends and family joined on route and by the time we got to the base of Little Chamonix (VD) we had a full entourage.

It had also begun to rain, torrentially. The route changed from an easy amble to a full blown waterfall in minutes. Taking a deep breath, and teasing Dad for 'back seat driving' I hopped on the lead.

Halfway up the first pitch the thunder and lightning began. It crashed through the valley, with barely time to think between the booms of thunder and flashes of lightning. I was scared. As Laura came up she echoed my feelings and said if we wanted to abb down it would need to be from the trees just below our belay. 

"I don't think I can lead up this Jen."

"I can" I replied. There was no chance that we would come this far only to be refused our chance by rain. We're from the Lakes for Christ's sake!

Jenny on the saddle Little Chamonix  © Jenny Moore
Jenny on the saddle Little Chamonix
© Jenny Moore

Watching the gaps between lightning and thunder decrease I knew all we had to battle with now was the rain. Solid foot placements, good gear, you've got this. Up the slab to the miraculously dry block, sling around it, slide down. Continue on up the next slab and place the trusty black totem cam. Sit astride the saddle.

Here a short debate took place on whether to belay or continue, but Laura reassured me she'd be fine so I carried on up. Pulling through the jugs at the end felt like such a hero move, water was cascading down my arms but I knew we'd done it. The grin was plastered across my face as I stepped onto the plateau at the top said it all! Yes!!!

Laura seconded in complete style, pulling through the moves with ease before coming crawling over the top. I think we were both a little in shock. What a finish! What a weekend! Proud didn't even cut it.

The support squad at the top of Little Cham - Chris, Mum, Dad, Steve, Ross, Rosie, Jenny, and Laura  © Jenny Moore
The support squad at the top of Little Cham - Chris, Mum, Dad, Steve, Ross, Rosie, Jenny, and Laura
© Jenny Moore




30 Jun, 2023

Great article, thanks. I enjoyed the detailed descriptions of everything, and above all the honest descriptions of your struggles. Some great photos too. I hope you write more in the future.

30 Jun, 2023

Brilliant. Loved this bit....

30 Jun, 2023

Great right up Jenny, I’d seen from Laura’s insta you’d done it. Fantastic effort.

1 Jul, 2023

Well done both!! Proper weekend out with a bit of girl power.

1 Jul, 2023

Brilliant effort and a great read, well done!

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