Introduction

Beijing-based Yuetong Zhang is part of a cohort of young Chinese athletes in the ascendant. Born in Shenzen, Zhang was a youth prodigy who joined the Chinese national team at the age of 11, becoming its youngest member. A promising career on the youth circuit led to a break-out performance in the IFSC Chamonix Lead World Cup in 2019, where she placed 2nd. 

A four-time finalist in IFSC Lead World Cups, Zhang is not always consistent in her results. However, given the impact of COVID-19 on her home country and the resulting protracted lockdowns, access to training and competitions has not been easy for the Chinese team. 

In 2023, she made every semi-final of the season in Lead — a marker of progress in her Lead form that culminated in a win in the most important event on the calendar for Zhang, who did not participate in the IFSC World Championships in Bern.

Qualification route

IFSC Asian Qualifier Jakarta 2023 - 1st place

In an event where Japanese athletes were arguably the favourites to win, Zhang went from 5th place in the qualifiers, to 4th in the semi-final, before securing first place and an Olympic ticket with an outstanding Lead climb after a close boulder round. A surprise win, but thoroughly deserved.

Trivia

As a child, Zhang cut her hair in the style of Ashima Shiraishi — her climbing idol. She moved to Japan for training in 2022.

UKC prediction

If Zhang can build some consistency in her Boulder performance to match her Lead results, a top-15 finish in Paris should be achieveable.