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6 pitches. P1 4 55m P1 of Central Gully.
P2 3 40m P2 of Central Gully to belay below the right end of a steep, roofed buttress on the right wall (midway between the Hedd Wyn and Scimitar Hill starts). Small, rounded spike belay.
P3 6 50m Climb 5m up the right side of an obvious sharp fin of rock (good gear) then make bold, committing moves right to gain an obvious shallow turfy groove. Up this to a snow ledge then straight on up the continuing steep turf line (5m left of Gallipoli) to gain the snow terrace. Belay over left at the toe of the next buttress (spike and nut belay).
P4 5 50m Move up the bare rock slab just right of the belay linking turf blobs then make bold moves left and up to gain easier ground. Follow easier turf up and right to gain a square cut groove in the centre of the buttress. Up this then traverse left to large spike belay below the obvious cracked tower on the left wall of the obvious open corner/groove.
P5 6 40m Ignoring the obvious main corner/groove to the right (which also looks good), technical moves lead straight up the crack in the wall/tower above the spike belay to gain the obvious ledge/break just below the top (tricky to place but good gear on the left). Committing moves lead straight up to a difficult exit (much easier if neve) onto the snow ledge and a junction with the route Gerlan Heights. Cross the snow ledge and continue on easier ground up and left to belay on large cracked blocks.
P6 4 85m Awkward moves lead onto the top of the cracked blocks and a ledge. Step right and up the turfy wall to another ledge then one final wall to reach the crest of the buttress. Easy snow leads to the top.
P3 originally climbed by Phil Dowthwaite Dec 2010 as an approach to Hedd Wyn)

Owen Hayward and Martin Land 21/Dec/2010.


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High VII
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Route of Interest

Back in Black

Grade: VI 6 ***
(Equator Walls)