Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
A tough lower section. Climb the tapering groove and left-trending pod to a finger-crack that joins Shin Gi Tai (1). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Good value. The bolt line right of Shin Gi Tai (1), sharing its upper section. Climb the tapering groove (the retrobolted start of Mark my Words) in the arête to where a pod slants to the left; then follow the finger crack above to gain a foot-ledge and a rest. Climb the shared upper crack and reach left to the belay rings. Seven bolt runners.
High 6b+ (or bottom end 6c)
The original line (and now incorporating part of Mark My Words, Tony Penning 21.1.07) retrobolted by Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 03/Apr/2016.
Ticklists
CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6Bs with stars near Bristol
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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