Rockfax Description
Three stars for the top pitch. Start as for Firefly.
1) 5a, 26m. Begin up the shallow depression and step right to a flat-topped block - peg above. Climb past the peg, and an overlap, to the long overhang right of the Firefly corner. Continue direct to join Firefly at the middle of three grooves and climb it to the midway ledge and belay in a small corner.
2) 5c, 24m. Follow Firefly to the break. Go left for 3m and move up onto a small ledge (peg). Make tricky moves up right to a good hold and continue to the upper break. Climb a thin wall past a peg to a ledge (large cam). A short crack gains the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Quite a long and intricate first pitch leads to a good belay on the terrace ledge. Second pitch has two or three great moves and though steep there are good rests and holds. Very worthwhile.
Ticklists
Becky's ticklist , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mattress | 18 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Gendarmarie. Suggest avoiding until they have left. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Gendarmarie. Suggest avoiding until they have left. |
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| plant_based_tommo | 25 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well worth doing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Well worth doing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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No Musketeers (Direct Finish)
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Shorn Cliff)