Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

Rockfax Description
Three stars for the top pitch. Start as for Firefly.
1) 5a, 26m. Begin up the shallow depression and step right to a flat-topped block - peg above. Climb past the peg, and an overlap, to the long overhang right of the Firefly corner. Continue direct to join Firefly at the middle of three grooves and climb it to the midway ledge and belay in a small corner.
2) 5c, 24m. Follow Firefly to the break. Go left for 3m and move up onto a small ledge (peg). Make tricky moves up right to a good hold and continue to the upper break. Climb a thin wall past a peg to a ledge (large cam). A short crack gains the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Quite a long and intricate first pitch leads to a good belay on the terrace ledge. Second pitch has two or three great moves and though steep there are good rests and holds. Very worthwhile.

Ticklists

Becky's ticklist , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mattress 18 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Gendarmarie. Suggest avoiding until they have left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Gendarmarie. Suggest avoiding until they have left.
plant_based_tommo 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Well worth doing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well worth doing.

Logged Ascents

311 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 72
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Musketeers (Direct Finish)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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