Three stars for the top pitch that is at the upper end of the E1 grade. Start as for Firefly.
1) 5a, 26m. Begin up the shallow depression and step right to a flat-topped block - peg above. Climb past the peg and an overlap to meet the long overhang 2m right of the Firefly slim corner. Continue direct to join Firefly at the middle of three grooves and climb it to the midway ledge and belay in a small corner.
2) 5c, 24m. Take the corner to the break (as for Firefly) and go left along the break for 3m and move up onto a small ledge (peg). Make some tricky moves up right to a very good hold and continue to the upper break. The thin wall above past a peg reaches a ledge (large cam useful) from where a short crack on the right gains the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Quite a long and intricate first pitch leads to a good belay on the terrace ledge. Second pitch has two or three great moves and though steep there are good rests and holds. Very worthwhile.
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