Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

63m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The classic HVS at Wintour's Leap. It takes on the dominating edge of the North Wall via a swerving line - first right and then left. The initial section of the first pitch is hard. Start at a large corner under the arete.
1) 5b, 22m. Bridge and layback up the corner and pass two overhangs - hard but good gear is available. Continue with less difficulty until easy ground leads to a belay in a cave.
2) 4b, 24m. Head out right and up slightly from the cave to reach a chimney (hidden from the cave belay). Climb to the top of the chimney and a ledge on the left (peg). Move left to the groove in the arete and follow this on good holds to below a large overhang. Traverse left past a thread and then move down to a niche and belay on pegs. Beware of rope drag on this pitch.
3) 4a, 13m. The groove leads to scrambling to the Great Ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start in the corner by the fallen block.

1st pitch - polished start that must be bridged and laybacked, very pumpy but short. You do need a good selection of cams. Place gear up high (over the first overhang) before you start and ensure your belayer pays attention as there is a risk of a ground fall. Place more gear around the second overhang and mount the crux. The climbing then becomes easier, continue up the arete and then scramble into the cave (thread and peg belay).

2nd pitch, leave the cave boldy, traversing slightly up and to the right into a chimney. Climb the chimney (small wires) to a small ledge (peg). Step left and a little up until you are right under the overhangs. Traverse left (exposed but on good holds) and then step down into a niche for belay. This pitch has heavy rope drag so pay attention to runner.

The 3rd pitch is straight up (small wires) to the great ledge (various tree/block/nut belays).

Use the main abseil station on the great ledge, a pair of 50m ropes just reach the ground.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , UK Lonely Leads , Coronation Street , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rhaegalex 11 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Big loose bit on the left of the cave, looks like a good jug. P2 has quite a bit of loose stuff on it, take care
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big loose bit on the left of the cave, looks like a good jug. P2 has quite a bit of loose stuff on it, take care
tom0129 26 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Huge block came off while partner was seconding P3, and the already mentioned large block looks dodgy. Go steady.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Huge block came off while partner was seconding P3, and the already mentioned large block looks dodgy. Go steady.
PaulJepson 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Towards the top groove of P1 there are dual pegs. The big cave ('The Angel's Eye') is about 4m diagonally left of this. Impossible to see from the line of P1 if you don't know where you are going. Easy climbing on scrappy blocks takes you there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Towards the top groove of P1 there are dual pegs. The big cave ('The Angel's Eye') is about 4m diagonally left of this. Impossible to see from the line of P1 if you don't know where you are going. Easy climbing on scrappy blocks takes you there.
plant_based_tommo 6 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: some loose rock on p2 and p3. not awful but care should be taken.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: some loose rock on p2 and p3. not awful but care should be taken.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 89
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 89
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Red Rose Speedway

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Symonds Yat)

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