Loading Notifications...
63m, 3 pitches. Start in the corner by the fallen block.

1st pitch - polished start that must be bridged and laybacked, very pumpy but short. You do need a good selection of cams. Place gear up high (over the first overhang) before you start and ensure your belayer pays attention as there is a risk of a ground fall. Place more gear around the second overhang and mount the crux. The climbing then becomes easier, continue up the arete and then scramble into the cave (thread and peg belay).

2nd pitch, leave the cave boldy, traversing slightly up and to the right into a chimney. Climb the chimney (small wires) to a small ledge (peg). Step left and a little up until you are right under the overhangs. Traverse left (exposed but on good holds) and then step down into a niche for belay. This pitch has heavy rope drag so pay attention to runner.

The 3rd pitch is straight up (small wires) to the great ledge (various tree/block/nut belays).

Use the main abseil station on the great ledge, a pair of 50m ropes just reach the ground.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye, UK Lonely Leads, Coronation Street, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Towards the top groove of P1 there are dual pegs. The big cave ('The Angel's Eye') is about 4m diagonally left of this. Impossible to see from the line of P1 if you don't know where you are going. Easy climbing on scrappy blocks takes you there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Towards the top groove of P1 there are dual pegs. The big cave ('The Angel's Eye') is about 4m diagonally left of this. Impossible to see from the line of P1 if you don't know where you are going. Easy climbing on scrappy blocks takes you there.
plant_based_tommo 6 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: some loose rock on p2 and p3. not awful but care should be taken.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: some loose rock on p2 and p3. not awful but care should be taken.

Logged Ascents

490 users have logged this
29 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 81
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

No Musketeers

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)