Like its namesake, this is a big brute of a route that is a classic tick. The vegetation and unsound rock in places can detract from what is a phenomenal line and experience. Start under the left-facing corner that runs all the way up the wall.
1) 5b, 40m. Move steeply up into the smooth walled corner and jam up this over a small overhang and reach less pressing ground (an alternative is to move right just under the small overhang and then up and back left). Continue up the groove (peg) until it narrows after 12m, and then transfer right to the arete before taking a slab up leftwards (peg) to twin slightly diverging cracks. Follow the twin cracks to the terrace and belay.
2) 5b, 40m. Head up the crack just left of the corner and pass the overhang with some difficulty to easier ground. The corner above needs care with the rock and at its top exit up earth, trees and vegetation onto the terrace and take a belay on threads under a chimney in a corner.
3) 10m. The chimney and its left wall lead easily to the top. © Rockfax
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