Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

55m. 4a,4c,4b,5a

Start by the up turned rock needle which just past the fallen tree at the bottom of the dip.

P1: 4a - Climb the obvious corner (dirty and a bit loose) until reaching better rock (and a belay).
P2: 4c - Difficult route finding (cracks both left and right) heads for a massive crack with large crystal holds within, eventually narrowing to a ledge and tree belay.

P1 and P2 can be run together.

P3: 4b - More straightforward climbing up the big crack (large gear required) leads to a ledge and another tree belay.
P4: 5a - Place gear up high and attentive belay to prevent risk of a ground fall. A difficult start (layback and then bridge) yields to more straightforward climbing to a tree belay and a short walk off to the path.

The final pitch can be avoided with a scramble right around and up.

Ticklists

Coronation Street , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 4 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Well worth doing, but also well worth taking secateurs - the first pitch will always be a bit overgrown
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well worth doing, but also well worth taking secateurs - the first pitch will always be a bit overgrown

Logged Ascents

106 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whitt

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Symonds Yat)

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