Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

78m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Traditional VDiff climbing featuring varied pitches and good situations. Due to the traversing nature of the route, all members of the party must be competent at the grade. Start at a short blocky corner on the left at the first ledge after the initial scramble.
1) 20m. Make some very awkward moves up the short blocky corner to get established on a ledge at 4m. Peg just above. Step left and pull steeply up left of an overhang to easier ground and continue leftwards past a bush and then a short corner to reach a good ledge and tree and nut belays.
2) 20m. Move up rightwards to another ledge and tree. Above is a pocketed crack with a thin thread. Move up to the thread and then step down and move right to a peg. Move delicately right again and then up on positive holds to a ledge. Go left and then up the wall just right of a tree to a wide ledge and tree and block belays.
3) 13m. Traverse the wide break leftwards – awkward. Once stood up in the break, a peg above can be clipped (a bit of a reach) to protect the second. Continue along a ramp to a shallow corner and pegs (this is the old belay). Move left out of the corner and make some nice moves on rough rock to reach a small stance and good nut and cam belays in a crack.
4) 30m. Easier but pleasant climbing up right and back left leads to a final stiff pull above a small tree to gain scrambling territory, a summit at the top of the easy way down, and various belays. © Rockfax

Ticklists

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Feedback

User Date Notes
Thomas Murphy 6 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb- pegs are in good condition, and new belay at the end of Pitch 3 works well. Fair bit of greenery on the route, but nothing that interferes with the climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: Great climb- pegs are in good condition, and new belay at the end of Pitch 3 works well. Fair bit of greenery on the route, but nothing that interferes with the climbing.
Alun Fisher 28 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Defnitely very stiff for the grade after pitch 2. Needs an experienced team.We belayed the 2nd pitch from the ledge beneath the thread. Couldn't see the peg on the traverse on the 3rd pitch and that upped the exposure. Fine route and fun if a little spicy at times.
βeta?
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βeta: Defnitely very stiff for the grade after pitch 2. Needs an experienced team.We belayed the 2nd pitch from the ledge beneath the thread. Couldn't see the peg on the traverse on the 3rd pitch and that upped the exposure. Fine route and fun if a little spicy at times.
Emile.swain 20 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Francis first climb in a while so was a good climb to practice on. Large beast holding piece of rock whipped on the route to the right. Everyone was ok.
βeta?
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βeta: Francis first climb in a while so was a good climb to practice on. Large beast holding piece of rock whipped on the route to the right. Everyone was ok.
Labergorce 7 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As per previous comments, this is a lovely route done on a beautiful summer evening in glorious sunshine. Never too hard but with great exposure. Pegs are in good condition and trustworthy. Agree not for the novice VDiff team as requires sound ropework to be safe. Leading through P3 into P4 allows for better protection of the second with half ropes. For me best V Diff at Wintours.
βeta?
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βeta: As per previous comments, this is a lovely route done on a beautiful summer evening in glorious sunshine. Never too hard but with great exposure. Pegs are in good condition and trustworthy. Agree not for the novice VDiff team as requires sound ropework to be safe. Leading through P3 into P4 allows for better protection of the second with half ropes. For me best V Diff at Wintours.
Mlewis 7 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The start of P2 felt more like a HS, dusty hand holds probably didn\'t help.
βeta?
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βeta: The start of P2 felt more like a HS, dusty hand holds probably didn't help.
jon59 22 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: All the pegs throughout the route have been replaced very recently, including the peg belay on pitch 3.
βeta?
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βeta: All the pegs throughout the route have been replaced very recently, including the peg belay on pitch 3.
Marti999 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: with good rope work it is safer to run pitch 3 an 4 together to save belaying on just pegs.
βeta?
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βeta: with good rope work it is safer to run pitch 3 an 4 together to save belaying on just pegs.
whoisjosh 6 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The belay on the 3rd pitch could really do with bolts. I am all for keeping routes true to the original assent style but I'm sure these pegs used to be in better condition. Probably worth replacing that peg on p2 aswell given it's the only thing preventing a fun swing...
Show beta
βeta: The belay on the 3rd pitch could really do with bolts. I am all for keeping routes true to the original assent style but I'm sure these pegs used to be in better condition. Probably worth replacing that peg on p2 aswell given it's the only thing preventing a fun swing...
chrishunt55 25 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The two peg belay at the end of pitch 3 is really not great. Would benefit massively from a bolt.
βeta?
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βeta: The two peg belay at the end of pitch 3 is really not great. Would benefit massively from a bolt.
Sid Sherborne 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The 'pointless old peg' at the start of P1 referenced by South West Climbs is not pointless. If you fall off the start and your gear rips it will probably keep you off the ground (the ground below the belay ledge) and also stop your belayer being pulled off the ledge after them. Unfortunately our friend found this out the hard way after pulling off a head-sized hold. Very luckily, she managed to weather the 15m ground fall with only minor injuries. Clip the peg!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 'pointless old peg' at the start of P1 referenced by South West Climbs is not pointless. If you fall off the start and your gear rips it will probably keep you off the ground (the ground below the belay ledge) and also stop your belayer being pulled off the ledge after them. Unfortunately our friend found this out the hard way after pulling off a head-sized hold. Very luckily, she managed to weather the 15m ground fall with only minor injuries. Clip the peg!
simon32000 22 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Could combine 3rd and 4th pitches if you manage the rope drag well
βeta?
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βeta: Could combine 3rd and 4th pitches if you manage the rope drag well

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High HS
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Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
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Votes cast 87
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Votes cast 71
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Not Set
Onsighted
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Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Rib Route III

Grade: VD ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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