UKH

24m.

Rockfax Description
A thin and dirty wall with some good flowstone near the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 26/Apr/1992.

Ticklists

Portland, Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 5 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The worst route I have ever done. Firstly you have to climb past the first bolt to clip it. This wouldn’t be so bad if the start wasn’t snappy and dirty and situated above a 30 foot drop into the bottom of a gully. Secondly (if you survive the start) the route continues on more dirty and snappy rock (with a couple of worrying clips) to a dusty mid height ledge. Finally, two or maybe three good moves on solid rock lead to the base of the flowstone which is itself not that nice and in fact a little snappy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The worst route I have ever done. Firstly you have to climb past the first bolt to clip it. This wouldn’t be so bad if the start wasn’t snappy and dirty and situated above a 30 foot drop into the bottom of a gully. Secondly (if you survive the start) the route continues on more dirty and snappy rock (with a couple of worrying clips) to a dusty mid height ledge. Finally, two or maybe three good moves on solid rock lead to the base of the flowstone which is itself not that nice and in fact a little snappy.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Medusa Falls

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)
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