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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
The start of this fine arete is just about defying gravity. The arete is climbed mainly on its right-hand side. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 20/May/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Olympian , Portland Projects 6c-7a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
dobby 200 20 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Gets very crimpy and balancy if you climb on the face right of the arete. Moving around the arete and up feels much nicer, especially with the secret left sidepull.
Show beta
βeta: Gets very crimpy and balancy if you climb on the face right of the arete. Moving around the arete and up feels much nicer, especially with the secret left sidepull.
Rin C 8 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A brilliant route with definite crux moves on the nose...sit on the ledge at the top and munch on your celebratory chocolate bar!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A brilliant route with definite crux moves on the nose...sit on the ledge at the top and munch on your celebratory chocolate bar!
Ben Stokes 18 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Total class - one of the best routes I have done on Portland and certainly the best 7a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Total class - one of the best routes I have done on Portland and certainly the best 7a.
Chris Shorter 11 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Prepare for the "on/off" feeling to persist for about 30 feet!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Prepare for the "on/off" feeling to persist for about 30 feet!!!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend North

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Horny Lil' Devil

Grade: 7a ***
(Lulworth)

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