55m, 2 pitches.
Start midway between Samurai & an obvious iron spike 10m tonite right, 5m up the cliff. There should be a line of boreholes above you. Carrying 2 sets of cams & some micro-wires would be wise.
P1. 30m 5c Ascend a series of overlaps & slabs past 2 thread-able boreholes to a tricky pull over a roof. Bold but easier climbing soon leads to a thin horizontal crack. Traverse left above this for 3 metres to a block & then more steeply up left to a huge detached-looking block. Step left around the roof above, onto a slab & pad up this to a good stance (ancient peg) under the big roof.
P2. 25m 5b Traverse diagonally rightwards under the roof, until it can be past, then head more easily up & left to an old iron stake & belay.
P1. 30m 5c Ascend a series of overlaps & slabs past 2 thread-able boreholes to a tricky pull over a roof. Bold but easier climbing soon leads to a thin horizontal crack. Traverse left above this for 3 metres to a block & then more steeply up left to a huge detached-looking block. Step left around the roof above, onto a slab & pad up this to a good stance (ancient peg) under the big roof.
P2. 25m 5b Traverse diagonally rightwards under the roof, until it can be past, then head more easily up & left to an old iron stake & belay.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| geoff b | 16 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Take 3 sets of mid-size cams! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Take 3 sets of mid-size cams! |
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Route of Interest
Lubyanka
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))