Loading Notifications...
145m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning adventure up the wall. Start below and to the left of The Razor's Edge terrace, which is identifiable by the large rusty chain on its right-hand side, below and slightly right of the striking crack/groove of Hamadryad.
1) 6b, 30m. Start at the foot of a blocky groove. Ascend this until it is possible to step right from a ledge and gain the start of a hanging groove. Enjoyable climbing leads up this. At the top of the groove, step left to gain the start of a blunt rib. Step onto the rib avoiding the loose blocks on the right, and continue up the rib to a bolt belay below a small pinnacle.
2) 6c, 35m. Climb up the pinnacle, where a steep step up and a pull gain the large slab. Trend up leftwards across the slab - at 3/4 height the climbing becomes testing. Continue up the steepening slab to gain the left arete, before stepping back right to gain the sloping belay ledge above.
3) 6c, 25m. Traverse airily right to the large rib. Continue upwards to a wide groove. Head up until it is possible to move out towards the continuation of the rib. Insecure climbing leads up the blunt rib to a belay at a small ledge.
4) 6a+, 15m. A hard steep start on blocky holds soon eases. Keep a look out for the two hidden bolts on the right. A sling on a flake may be useful if the exposure gets to you, but easy climbing soon leads to a belay next to a large pinnacle.
5) 6c, 15m. Traverse leftwards from the pinnacle until a step up gains the easy-angled slab. Continue upwards to the base of a slabby groove. A thought-provoking series of moves will hopefully gain the top of the groove. Continue up the easy-angled slab to a belay at the base of a groove.
6) 6b, 20m. A steep start soon leads to a short finger-crack in the corner. A confident approach will gain a ramp-line leading up leftwards to a ledge below the final short headwall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
145m, 6 pitches. THE THIRD LONGEST SPORT ROUTE IN THE UK - 145m F6b,6c,6c,6a+,6c,6b Approach from the Twll Mawr access tunnel. From the boulders at the end of the level carefully head diagonally down the scree slope past some larger blocks sticking out of the scree. The route starts below and to the left of ‘The Razors Edge’ terrace which is identifiable by the large rusty chain on its right hand side. Pitch 1 6b 30m Start at the foot of a blocky groove, ascend the wide groove until it is possible to step rightwards from a ledge and gain the start of a hanging narrow groove; some cool moves lead to the top of the groove, step left to gain the start of a blunt rib. A delicate step onto the rib avoiding the loose blocks on the right, continue pleasantly up the balancey stepped rib to a bolt belay below a small pinnacle. 14 bolts. Pitch 2 6c 35m Climb to the top of the pinnacle from where a steep step up and pull gains the start of the large slab. Continue up trending leftwards across the slab, at about ¾ height the climbing becomes more delicate and insecure. Continue up the steepening slab until the left arête can be gained before stepping back right by the top bolt to gain the sloping belay ledge above. 13 bolts. Pitch 3 6c 25m Traverse airily rightwards to gain the base of the large rib, continue upwards with some insecure moves to a wide groove. Climb up until it is possible to make a couple of wild and precarious moves out towards the continuation of the rib. Teasingly insecure climbing leads up the blunt rib to the belay at a small ledge at the base of a steeper wall, an excellent pitch. 9 bolts. Pitch 4 6a+ 20m Exit the belay ledge with some steep pulls on blocky holds, hard to start but soon easing. Keep a look out for the last two hidden bolts on the right, a sling on a flake may be useful if the exposure’s getting to you, but easy climbing soon leads to a belay next to a large pinnacle. 6 bolts. Pitch 5 6c 15m Traverse leftwards from the pinnacle until a step up gains the easy angled slab, continue upwards to the base of a slabby groove. A thought provoking series of moves will hopefully gain the top of the groove, continue up the easy angled slab to a belay at the base of a groove. 6 bolts. Pitch 6 6b 20m A steep start soon leads to a short finger jamming crack in the corner, a confident approach will gain a ramp-line leading up leftwards to a ledge below the final short headwall. Don’t rush the final moves. Bolt belay above the sloping ledge. 6 bolts. Walk off.
Note: Each belay is equipped with stainless rings so that an abseil retreat is possible at the end of each pitch if the weather gets bad or if a retreat is required for any other reason.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Celt Lloyd-Jones (aged 11) 25/Apr/2014.

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+, Slate Sport, The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!, Wales Ticklist, Sl@teheads Sl@te, Epic Rock Europe, Slate Mastery, The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist, Tolkien route names

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

172 users have logged this
172 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 6c ***
(Tyddyn Hywel Quarry)