Rockfax Description
This is not as good as the Wrinkled Tower and also not as hard since the difficult climbing is easily avoided. It is worth doing though and links well with the fabulous Notch Arete. Follow the runnel below the face up to just below the route, then cut left below the route and back right to a grass ledge with a some scree below a rib.
1) From the right end of the ledge, climb the side of a corner made by the rib to gain cleaner water-washed steps. Trend left at first then more direct. Seek out the best climbing as easier terrain is often found right of the rocky rib. Eventually head back left to a corner and climb up it on good holds aiming for a slab.
2) Follow the heather rake up the centre of the slab until it ends and then move left on spikes to a heathery ledge below some precarious stacked blocks.
3) Avoid the blocks by climbing a narrow vegetated strip to the right until you can traverse left to the edge.
4) From the edge, move left and pull over blocks above the worst of the loose section.
5) After an awkward move at the top, easier scrambling leads to an imposing wall. Climb this up its centre.
6) Follow your nose to gain rib and climb it to a tricky finish to reach a junction with the ridge just below the North Tower.
Continuation - Go up North Ridge of Tryfan or Notch Arete. Descend North Ridge of Tryfan if you have had enough. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Two different routes covered by this name. The Cicerone guides use it for an extended version of Buzzard's Buttress, while the Garry Smith guide uses it for Y Gully/Notch Arete.


Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , North Wales isnt just slate apparently


User Date Notes
FallingBrick 20 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The "cave" in the description is wet, green and unattractive - suggest going around to the L which is a bit more exposed but OK.
Show beta
βeta: The "cave" in the description is wet, green and unattractive - suggest going around to the L which is a bit more exposed but OK.

Logged Ascents

116 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Tryfan

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 17 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High 3S
Mid 3S
Low 3S
High Grade-3
Mid Grade-3
Low Grade-3
High Grade-2
Mid Grade-2
Low Grade-2
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dolmen Ridge

Grade: Grade-3 ***
(Glyder Fach)

Loading Notifications...