UKH

200m.

Rockfax Description
Another plumb line of the East Face. Follow Heather Terrace to the base of Nor' Nor' Gully.
1) From the base of the gully, climb up the chimney crack on the right - hard to start and reaches a ledge. Continue up and right along a narrow ledge on a slab and head up to a heathery ledge.
2) Continue up rock near the rib that almost overlooks Nor' Nor' Gully. Go past a couple of small ledges to reach a more open heather area. Just below where it gets steep and more like rock climbing escape left into Nor' Nor' Gully. That upper rib on the right you are avoiding can be climbed at Diff.
3) Head up the gully keeping to the right over scree and then more rock and heather. Pass to the right where it forks to reach a slab boulder. Make an awkward move over the slabby boulder then be careful not to miss the exit rightwards from the confines of the gully over some wedged blocks to enter a chimney cleft. This brings you out on the rib above the hard section.
4) Move up and around to the top of the pinnacle that makes the right side of the cleft and then step across the cleft you have just climbed from its top. Now continue more or less direct up the buttress to the Eastern Terrace.
5) You can either head up the gully to gain The North Ridge of Tryfan or follow the Eastern Terrace left. You can also go back down the Eastern Terrace to join The North Ridge of Tryfan below the North Tower for a good link-up. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , British 3 Star Scrambles

Feedback

User Date Notes
kaiser 27 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The flake on the diagonal upward traverse at the start is very loose - needs great care as it\'s a natural hold to grab as you make your up and across to get under the \'echoey stacked blocks\' and by that stage you\'re already in an exposed position.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The flake on the diagonal upward traverse at the start is very loose - needs great care as it's a natural hold to grab as you make your up and across to get under the 'echoey stacked blocks' and by that stage you're already in an exposed position.

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Voting
High 3S
Mid 3S
Low 3S
High Grade-3
Mid Grade-3
Low Grade-3
High Grade-2
Mid Grade-2
Low Grade-2
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Main Gully Ridge

Grade: Grade-3 ***
(Glyder Fach)

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