85m, 3 pitches. This route is on the North Wall of South Gully. Approached by scrambling up South Gully as if heading for Munich Climb, this steep looking wall gives delightful climbing on positive holds. The quality of the rock is excellent, whilst gear is more plentiful & better than appearances might suggest. Micro-wires & cams of all sizes will be useful.

Start 4m up & right of the start of Munich Climb at a small ledge below an overlap at the bottom of the slabby wall.
P1 28m 5a Step left around the overlap & climb boldly up, trending gently right, on positive holds to a discontinuous horizontal crack & gear. Continue gently rightwards up the central depression, passing a series of discontinuous vertical cracks which lead to the belay ledge with the perched block common to South Gully Wall. Super climbing.
P2 32m 5b Make a hard move off the perched block to reach a good crack. Continue up steeply but on good holds to a small grassy ledge. The wavy wall above leads to the arete but move right to a crack which is followed to a huge ledge.
P3 25m 5b Above you should be 3 short, steep, bands of rock, the skyline of which is Summit Wall with a prominent fin/nose and a U-shaped groove to its right: this is where you’re headed. Make steep moves up the first wall on good holds to a ledge. The second wall is also steep but similarly endowed. Bridge awkwardly up to the roof & an obvious crack. Pull over this to finish between the fin & the arete.

Derek Ryden & Geoff Bennett (AL) 14/Jul/2018.


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Route of Interest
A Touch of Class

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Drws y Gwynt)

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