UKH

48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great rock, exhilarating moves and breath-taking exposure. Gain the right-hand end of the large terrace halfway up North Gully either by a scramble or by North Buttress. Belay just right of a large block.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up right and go round the arete on the right. Climb a slab to a small ledge then follow the slab above. Continue up the curving groove to a large ledge.
2) 4b, 40m. Head right onto the nose and enjoy the air beneath your feet. Climb straight up to easier ground leading to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , CUMC First Ascents , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Adventure ticklist 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Climbs I want do next , Wales Multipitch

Feedback

User Date Notes
Butty 3 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Great route with good exposure. Made the mistake of dropping down and going around to the right instead of going straight up from the obvious belay niche. Came back down and then it made sense. The 2nd pitch is short with a couple of nice moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with good exposure. Made the mistake of dropping down and going around to the right instead of going straight up from the obvious belay niche. Came back down and then it made sense. The 2nd pitch is short with a couple of nice moves.
Johnathan 31 May Show βeta
βeta: Heading around the arete one of the blocks in the groove was very loose. I felt as though I nearly pulled it off the mountain. On a route this popular it's probably not news (or maybe I was in the wrong place...) but take care!
Show beta
βeta: Heading around the arete one of the blocks in the groove was very loose. I felt as though I nearly pulled it off the mountain. On a route this popular it's probably not news (or maybe I was in the wrong place...) but take care!
Francis Hardy 5 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Guide book description is vague and pretty sure the tooi is wrong. From looking back down the route I'm faiy certain the slabs mentioned in the description are right round the main arete and not visible from the belay stance.
Show beta
βeta: Guide book description is vague and pretty sure the tooi is wrong. From looking back down the route I'm faiy certain the slabs mentioned in the description are right round the main arete and not visible from the belay stance.
TommoRowe 31 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: It was confusing to find, but this is because we didn\'t finish North Buttress at the right pitch. A good way to know you\'re at the start is to make sure you\'re level with the 5th pitch of Grooved Arete. From here the Rockfax descritpion is bang on and the route is well worth doing. We found the first pitch more enjoyable and exposed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It was confusing to find, but this is because we didn't finish North Buttress at the right pitch. A good way to know you're at the start is to make sure you're level with the 5th pitch of Grooved Arete. From here the Rockfax descritpion is bang on and the route is well worth doing. We found the first pitch more enjoyable and exposed.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 62
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cracked Arete

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Carreg Mianog)

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