UKH

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning route up the big wall right of the cave. The top pitch is like climbing a line of bolt-on jugs up the bow of a ship!
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the awkward lower wall to a small roof. Move up and left onto a nicely-placed sloping ledge. Step left to a hole then climb up and back right via a hard move and continue easily to the ledge.
2) 5c, 20m. The loose groove on the right leads to a ledge below a flake crack. Arrange some gear in this, then swing left along a finger traverse line to a thread. Make a hard move up then move right onto the arete which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 26/Feb/1988.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, 101Pembroke Extremes, Ultimate E4 ticklist, 30 For My 30s, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

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User Date Notes
Ram MkiV 2 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Technical, strenny and pushy first pitch, the start of which is always going to be a bit greasy. If you braid two wires together to extend reach, you can place an ok rock 1or 2 quite high in starting groove from good holds. This makes the fairly desperate moves up to the obvious good gear slot (rock 5 or so - have it ready!) a lot less gripping than otherwise. Though the top of the groove is well furnished with jugs, the feet are poor. Luckily however, there's a really good (no hands) left knee bar so you can sort kit for the still tricky (6a ish and a bit greasy) moves left without getting too pumped.
Show beta
βeta: Technical, strenny and pushy first pitch, the start of which is always going to be a bit greasy. If you braid two wires together to extend reach, you can place an ok rock 1or 2 quite high in starting groove from good holds. This makes the fairly desperate moves up to the obvious good gear slot (rock 5 or so - have it ready!) a lot less gripping than otherwise. Though the top of the groove is well furnished with jugs, the feet are poor. Luckily however, there's a really good (no hands) left knee bar so you can sort kit for the still tricky (6a ish and a bit greasy) moves left without getting too pumped.
GDes 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: We thought it was going to be all about the top pitch. turns out the 1st pitch is quite hard, and the top pitch steep but basically ok. Really good route, but be up for it on the 1st pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We thought it was going to be all about the top pitch. turns out the 1st pitch is quite hard, and the top pitch steep but basically ok. Really good route, but be up for it on the 1st pitch

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Route of Interest

Maybe It Was You!

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Raming Hole Area)
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