A wildly exposed pitch that climbs the super-steep crack which sprouts from the traverse high on Tophet Wall. Start 3m right of Tophet Wall below a conspicuous right-leading narrow ramp/groove.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb the ramp/groove to a spike. Move out left onto the steep wall which is followed to the belay at the top of Tophet Wall pitch one.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb up the wall/rib on the right to steeper rock, then move right to below the right-hand of two grooves. Climb the groove to a stance at a spike. A poorly protected pitch.
3) 6a, 25m. The alarmingly overhanging crack is very strenuous and sustained but can be well protected. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The frighteningly, overhanging, intimidating, offwidth crack has great character.
1.) 18m (5a), warm up on P1 of Demon Wall.
2.) 25m (5b), poorly protected. Climb the rib just left of Demon Wall to a broken ledge, move right and pull over a bulge into the right hand of two short grooves which leads to a belay just right of the crack, at a shattered pinnacle.
3.) 23m (6a), climb the wide crack; dynamic and strenuous.
J.Lamb, P.Botteril and J.Taylor Jun/1978.
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