The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A popular expedition. Start on the left side of the block used as the scramble up to the start of Cretin's Cavort.
1) 4b, 16m. Move up to a narrow pointed overhang right of a corner/groove and follow the cracks above it to a tree and belay.
2) 4b, 18m. Make a rising traverse leftwards up a sloping ledge, using underclings in places, to an earthy groove. Follow the groove to a short slab and a spacious belay ledge above.
3) 4a, 18m. Climb a groove to below the huge black overhang. Traverse right to the end of the overhang and finish up the corner past a tree.
3a) Inkspots Hangover, HVS 5b - A strenuous alternative up the right side of the overhang above the groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start just left of the large block.
1) 4b. Climb the cracks, passing a hard move, to reach a slab that leads to a ledge, and a tree belay.
2) 4a. Make a rising traverse, using underclings in places, to move left into an earthy groove. This groove leads to a short slab, and a spacious ledge.
3) 3c. Climb the hanging corner.
4) 3c. Traverse across the wall, using underclings, to reach a short corner. Climb this corner, past a tree, to a belay.
2020 Vision , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Cream first! , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , Routes for MCI
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Florensics | 27 Feb, 2023 |
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βeta: On the 2nd pitch, there is a very large loose rock on the more left-hand side of the face, its got a very sharp edge along the top of it and is quite obvious. | βeta? | |
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βeta: On the 2nd pitch, there is a very large loose rock on the more left-hand side of the face, its got a very sharp edge along the top of it and is quite obvious. |
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Bennyboy1233 | 27 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Got a bit lost on the second pitch, didn\'t traverse enough to the left | ||
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βeta: Got a bit lost on the second pitch, didn't traverse enough to the left |
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stevevans5 | 18 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Some loose rock on pitch 2 - take care! The Dartmoor guide has the technical grades for pitches 1 and 2 the other way round | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Some loose rock on pitch 2 - take care! The Dartmoor guide has the technical grades for pitches 1 and 2 the other way round |
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chudders1 | 13 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: 2 stars of anyone’s money !! 3 awesome pitches ! A must do !! | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2 stars of anyone’s money !! 3 awesome pitches ! A must do !! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)