Loading Notifications...
2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A hidden classic that weaves its way up the alternating slabs and overhangs of the front face. Start by scrambling around the base of the buttress to a tree on the right.
1) 5a, 17m. Move up to the right end of the overhangs and climb a short corner (not the square-cut longer corner to the right). Pull out left after 3m and move across the slab to a peg and nut belay.
2) 5a, 16m. Climb up behind the belay and make a thin move rightwards onto another slab before moving up to the next overhang. Restricted moves left gain the arete and much easier climbing leading to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Tom Patey’s legacy. A very fine route. Fair for its grade, though with a bold feel in places.
The first pitch dries slowly after rain; the second memorable pitch can be gained by alternative starts. The first pitch is worthwhile though.
Start on the right-hand side of the slab, below a hanging corner.
1) 5a. Climb the slab to the corner. Climb the corner with difficulty, until it is
possible to step left, onto a slab. Traverse across this to a peg, Rock and Friend belay. 2) 5a. Climb the short wall, via a crack and groove, and teeter onto the upper slab. Move delicately up, and right, to reach the next overhang, via a thin crack (Rocks/small Friends). Traverse leftwards, to the edge of the slab, and use a crack to surmount the overhang, to reach slabs. Continue to belays.
4c. Climb the steep slab direct, up to the corner of the first pitch.

FA. T.Patey 1959.


Kernow, West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.


There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

388 users have logged this
90 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

American Beauty

Grade: HVS 5a ***