The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
The eye-catching crack in the wall to the right of Mucky Gully. Start as for Mucky Gully below the long corner.
1) 16m. Climb up the corner on large holds to a good ledge and belays. This is the first pitch of Mucky Gully.
2) 4a, 21m. On the right wall of the gully above the belay ledge is a long crack. Climb the fine crack to a tree belay.
3) 9m. Climb up the exposed face above the tree and bridge left over a gap to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) 4a. Energetic. Climb Mucky Gully, to the obvious wide crack on the right wall. Take this crack direct.
West Country Climbs , I want a Pasty! , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Bennyboy1233 | 21 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: bird was nesting halfway up p2, i shat myself when it flew out suddenly! | βeta? | |
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βeta: bird was nesting halfway up p2, i shat myself when it flew out suddenly! |
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Neil Stuart | 3 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Solo today and the top of the crack very jam oriented. Quite hard I thought. | ||
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βeta: Solo today and the top of the crack very jam oriented. Quite hard I thought. |
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RichFree | 26 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Loved this climb. Done as a single pitch as I was having too much fun to stop mid route. Underated Classic Dewerstone | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loved this climb. Done as a single pitch as I was having too much fun to stop mid route. Underated Classic Dewerstone |
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AndyMorrall | 9 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Also with Mat | βeta? | |
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βeta: Also with Mat |
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Paddy_nolan | 14 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: You need to be able to Jam on this route before | βeta? | |
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βeta: You need to be able to Jam on this route before |
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)