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Rockfax Description
Fun and varied climbing that builds to a head spinning finish on the summit of the pinnacle. Start below a chimney crack at the foot of the ridge where the approach path begins to drop down to the main area.
1) 8m. Bridge steeply up the chimney to a large ledge.
2) 10m. Scramble easily to a belay ledge under a vertical wall with a crack in it.
3) 13m. Climb the crack to another ledge. Continue up the arete and move left to a ledge and belay below a vertical crack.
4) 10m. Make a committing step right to the arete and move up to the top of the pinnacle. Climb down and bridge across to a short finishing wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
It is possible to run pitches together for convenience.
Start below a small chimney, 5 metres left of Mucky Gully.
1) 3a. Bridge the chimney. Belay.
2) 3a. Climb over blocks to a ledge, and a belay.
3) 3a. Move out right, to an airy wall overlooking the gully. Climb up this wall,
then move back left, to a ledge. Belay
4) 3a. Move back right, climb up the wall, go around the pinnacle (to the right), and step across the gap, to the top of Mucky Gully, and a short wall. Climb this wall. VARIATION HARD SEVERE 4A
3a) 4a. Move out left from the ledge, climb direct to another ledge, from where
the summit block is reached.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, University of Exeter must tick's, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), I want a Pasty!, Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial

Feedback

User Date Notes
LeggingsQueen 8 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly boulder on the right at belay point for 3rd pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wobbly boulder on the right at belay point for 3rd pitch
Paddy_nolan 14 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Take a big cam for the chimney at the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take a big cam for the chimney at the top
Mlewis 26 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lead 2 and 4. Great route, however 2nd pitch was more of a scramble.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead 2 and 4. Great route, however 2nd pitch was more of a scramble.

Logged Ascents

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High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Whispering Doom

Grade: VD ***
(Elender Cove)