A truly wonderful climb - they don't come much better. The climbing is intimidating but straightforward and very well-protected. Start directly beneath the dominating corner. 1) 4b, 28m. Climb the short polished wall to the base of the corner, which is followed all the way to the capping overlap. Traverse rightwards to the arete and a large block-belay. 2) 4b, 20m. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge. Move right to below a well defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top, the technical crux of the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Holds and protection abound. Start below the obvious large corner.
1) 4b. Climb the cracked wall to the start of the corner. Climb this, by a variety of techniques, until the overhangs become oppressive. Move out, onto the wall, using large holds, and climb up to an airy belay on the arête. Or, finish directly up the corner. Harder. 2) 4b. Climb a short wall to a ramp. Move right, across this ramp, and finish up the hanging corner above, by layback and finger jams. It is possible to climb the slab, right of the corner; harder, and worrying to lead.
FA. C.Simpson 1949.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Kernow, West Country Climbs, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Classic Corners, South West Climbs for a Northerner, HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, CUMC Ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School, South West VDiff-HVS, 2016 Targets, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, University of Exeter must tick's, Pre-MIA Wishlist, Moving to Devon, Bristol Crack School, Ultimate HS ticklist, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), 2020/21 Trips, Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial, Plymouth Crackhead Club
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