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16m.

Rockfax Description
A great piece of climbing. The wide groove, mainly on its right-hand side. The start is a boulder problem at about V2. © Rockfax

FA. Tim Dunsby 06/Oct/1991.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland sub 6b, Portland, Portland Sendathon

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User Date Notes
earthkeptwarm 23 Aug Show βeta
βeta: I think the 'v2 boulder' bit of the description might psyche people out a bit at the start. 'A hard start' would suffice.
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βeta: I think the 'v2 boulder' bit of the description might psyche people out a bit at the start. 'A hard start' would suffice.
Richard Horn 25 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: There are many 6a+'s better than this on portland - it is 1* max.
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βeta: There are many 6a+'s better than this on portland - it is 1* max.
Andy Hemsted 24 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It was disgraceful that this gorgeous route was only given one star in the book! It not only deserves the extra star which it has now been awarded, but AT LEAST one more ... as long as you climb right up until your harness is level with the bolts! The start is definitely too hard for 6a+, but once past the first bolt and the ledge, the good moves just keep coming ... This is the best route of this grade that I've climbed in Britain, and as good as my favourite otherwise: Eleusis, on Rocher St Christophe, in France.
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βeta: It was disgraceful that this gorgeous route was only given one star in the book! It not only deserves the extra star which it has now been awarded, but AT LEAST one more ... as long as you climb right up until your harness is level with the bolts! The start is definitely too hard for 6a+, but once past the first bolt and the ledge, the good moves just keep coming ... This is the best route of this grade that I've climbed in Britain, and as good as my favourite otherwise: Eleusis, on Rocher St Christophe, in France.
airbournegrapefruit 13 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: i found the start of this easier than consomme. and the rest of the route has some nice interesting moves.
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βeta: i found the start of this easier than consomme. and the rest of the route has some nice interesting moves.
Chris(cface!) 23 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I on-sighted this a few years ago. I didn't find the boulder problem start amazingly tricky! Must be all that Northumberland '6a'! Great route though.
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βeta: I on-sighted this a few years ago. I didn't find the boulder problem start amazingly tricky! Must be all that Northumberland '6a'! Great route though.
Max factor 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: pretty nails for 6a+ - but the main difficulties are low down and it is much steadier above the big ledge. Plenty of time to depump before the groove above, so maybe just merits the grade.
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βeta: pretty nails for 6a+ - but the main difficulties are low down and it is much steadier above the big ledge. Plenty of time to depump before the groove above, so maybe just merits the grade.
JIMBO 1 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The big block halfway up the route has now gone - no change in grade but makes the top more interesting than before: It's now worth its 6a+ grade :)
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βeta: The big block halfway up the route has now gone - no change in grade but makes the top more interesting than before: It's now worth its 6a+ grade :)
climbingrich 5 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: agreed, the first clip is desperate as hell, more like 6c to the ledge. a fine climb nonetheless
βeta?
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βeta: agreed, the first clip is desperate as hell, more like 6c to the ledge. a fine climb nonetheless
Richard Horn 28 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Fell off on second attempt at the start before clipping the first bolt and hurt my foot on a rock. Quite a desperate start and much harder moves than the grade would suggest, possibly F6c which is what the V2 bouldering comment would suggest.
βeta?
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βeta: Fell off on second attempt at the start before clipping the first bolt and hurt my foot on a rock. Quite a desperate start and much harder moves than the grade would suggest, possibly F6c which is what the V2 bouldering comment would suggest.

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High 6b+
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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 145
Votes cast 124
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
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Not Set
Route of Interest

Trad Free World

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)