50m.
Start at the edge of the ledge left of Charlie Don’t Surf.
1. 30m 5c Traverse left along the obvious break until possible to move up to a good ledge. Traverse left to
the arete and climb this in superb position to the belay of Charlie.
2. 20m 4a Follow the pleasant black slabs to the top.
The next two routes are reached by dropping down to a lower ledge and traversing carefully left to below
an overhanging recess.
1. 30m 5c Traverse left along the obvious break until possible to move up to a good ledge. Traverse left to
the arete and climb this in superb position to the belay of Charlie.
2. 20m 4a Follow the pleasant black slabs to the top.
The next two routes are reached by dropping down to a lower ledge and traversing carefully left to below
an overhanging recess.
J.Fleming, C.Jackson 15/Jun/1996.
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Route of Interest
Heartbeat City
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Dunshean Head)