User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
sparbus | 28 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Above the terrace, the pitch description is tricky. There is an obvious shortish corner about 6m left of the gully edge, about 10m above the terrace, which looks dirty, hard and unclimbed. Starting left of this through a series of blocky outcrops (climb face or corner) after c8m reached a slabby wall with a crack running up it, which is rough pebbly rock. I went up the crack till it steepens, then right across a wall (4c) beneath an overlap. This leads to above the dirty corner, which is definitely on route as the stalactite (not a stalactite, a pillar, which is threadable), is 6m above the top of this corner. I didn’t find the route loose or particularly dirty. Could be improved with a better description of the last 100m as it looks far from easy. One possible bit of advice would be to traverse up and left along a rising terrace for a rope length to reach cleaner rock up ribs and cracks to the top. (Didn’t do this as it was hailing and snowing and we traversed further left on grassy terraces) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Above the terrace, the pitch description is tricky. There is an obvious shortish corner about 6m left of the gully edge, about 10m above the terrace, which looks dirty, hard and unclimbed. Starting left of this through a series of blocky outcrops (climb face or corner) after c8m reached a slabby wall with a crack running up it, which is rough pebbly rock. I went up the crack till it steepens, then right across a wall (4c) beneath an overlap. This leads to above the dirty corner, which is definitely on route as the stalactite (not a stalactite, a pillar, which is threadable), is 6m above the top of this corner. I didn’t find the route loose or particularly dirty. Could be improved with a better description of the last 100m as it looks far from easy. One possible bit of advice would be to traverse up and left along a rising terrace for a rope length to reach cleaner rock up ribs and cracks to the top. (Didn’t do this as it was hailing and snowing and we traversed further left on grassy terraces) |
||||
Calum3610 | 13 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt more like a very loose vegetated and scary VS. The route is also hard to find and lacks a decent line, making route finding challenging. We think we got the right line on the first tier and definitely got the right line on the upper tier (up the left hand corner with the crack, the right one is blank) because we found the stalactite. After this we may have gotten off route as the easier climbing failed to materialise. All in all the route took 5 hours for a 180m HS. In summary it was wandering, scary, loose and I would not recommend it, particularly to a HS leader. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Felt more like a very loose vegetated and scary VS. The route is also hard to find and lacks a decent line, making route finding challenging. We think we got the right line on the first tier and definitely got the right line on the upper tier (up the left hand corner with the crack, the right one is blank) because we found the stalactite. After this we may have gotten off route as the easier climbing failed to materialise. All in all the route took 5 hours for a 180m HS. In summary it was wandering, scary, loose and I would not recommend it, particularly to a HS leader. |
||||
Little AndyH | 12 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lots of loose rock, very wandering route finding. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Lots of loose rock, very wandering route finding. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Rhue Sea Cliffs)