Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies east of Scotsman Chimney to the start of Traverse of the Gods.

16 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An adventurous and serious sea-level expedition that should not be underestimated. Good rope management and lead ability at the grade for all members of the party is essential. If opting for the swim across Black Zawn to finish then sea conditions, open water swimming ability and temperature should be very carefully assessed. Begin on ledges to the west of Tilly Whim Caves. Start 2 hours before low tide.
1) 5b, 16m. Traverse along the faultline to a crack then down climb until it is possible to move down leftwards to gain ledges on the left. This section was traditionally accomplished by use of rope tension and pendulums from a peg.
2) 45m. Traverse and scramble along at sea level to a ledge and triangular block.
3) 10m. Climb the short corner above the block to the faultline and go along to a ledge and belay.
4) 4c, 16m. Head down leftwards onto an overhung slab below the faultline then move left to a corner. Climb the corner back up to the faultline and belay on the left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start west of the Tilly Whim Caves. The Traverse leads towards Subluminal. Pitch 15 involves either swimming across the Zawn (or climbing up Mellow Yellow). The route can be done free at around E1 5b if conditions permit. The original style involves tension traverses and Tyroleans. A committing and exciting outing.


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User Date Notes
Mr_greenrose 28 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: From Scotsmen chimney onwards, finished up Ray of sunshine for a spicier ending
Show beta
βeta: From Scotsmen chimney onwards, finished up Ray of sunshine for a spicier ending

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 2
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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