125m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An immaculate trip following the beautiful barrel on perfect rock. Large belay ledges and easy escape options make this route feel less committing than its Idwal Slab neighbours. The line seeks out the best rock on the buttress. A great day can be had by climbing with you gear and walking right at the top to tackle Cneifion Arete.
1) 30m. A 3-star pitch in its own right. Start below the pointed boulder and follow the groove, crack, then slab, to the bulge. Pass this on the left (tricky) and finish up the slab to a large belay ledge.
2) 35m. Wander left easily to reach the next true section of climbing. Take the broad rib direct via a crack to reach the rounded top.
3) 25m. Scramble rightwards to belay below the small roof in the right arete of the rib.
4) 35m. A fitting finale. Rock around the nose to a scoop. Head up and left on the front of the pillar then finish up the crack. An easier finish can be had to the right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Over to the left of Idwal Slabs past the descent route, on its own buttress. 4-6 pitches. Excellent, sustained climbing between good belay ledges. The long traverse pitch rightwards to reach the right arĂȘte is more of a walk/easy scramble.

J.M.Edwards 1931.

Ticklists

Menlove Routes , Snowdonia in Chains , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 14 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Slippy first pitch, two scramble pitches but then an amazing final pitch. Just about managed with a 40m rope, just... More like HVD 4a and not sure about 3 stars when two pitches are scrambles, but worth doing nonetheless.
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βeta: Slippy first pitch, two scramble pitches but then an amazing final pitch. Just about managed with a 40m rope, just... More like HVD 4a and not sure about 3 stars when two pitches are scrambles, but worth doing nonetheless.
Dave_27 28 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Lead pitches 1,3 and 4. Enjoyable climb with decent holds.
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βeta: Lead pitches 1,3 and 4. Enjoyable climb with decent holds.
pweh 7 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose sections at the start of pitch 4 where the feet are good. High in the grade on a few moves and not as escapable as the book would suggest. Steady lead with bullet proof gear on most of the hard moves. Climbed in ice and wind, great day out.
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βeta: Some loose sections at the start of pitch 4 where the feet are good. High in the grade on a few moves and not as escapable as the book would suggest. Steady lead with bullet proof gear on most of the hard moves. Climbed in ice and wind, great day out.
liensiwel 8 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: What a beautiful climb on a lovely warm day. Sure, it's probably harder than VD, and you wouldn't want to fall on gaining the crest of the final pitch, but the moves and situations are so engaging. Probably best for those who climb harder than VD who just want a great day out. Tired of SCR? Tired of climbing!
βeta?
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βeta: What a beautiful climb on a lovely warm day. Sure, it's probably harder than VD, and you wouldn't want to fall on gaining the crest of the final pitch, but the moves and situations are so engaging. Probably best for those who climb harder than VD who just want a great day out. Tired of SCR? Tired of climbing!
batterj2 13 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Flake is very loose - easy to wobble with feet. Care needed.
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βeta: Flake is very loose - easy to wobble with feet. Care needed.
curon 23 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch lengths are longer than mentioned in Rockfax, and at the limit of a 50m rope, Ogwen Climbers Club guidebook seems to have the correct lengths.
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βeta: Pitch lengths are longer than mentioned in Rockfax, and at the limit of a 50m rope, Ogwen Climbers Club guidebook seems to have the correct lengths.
Abi_Davies 19 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Climbing in approach shoes not recommended.
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βeta: Climbing in approach shoes not recommended.
Disco LeMond 26 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement).
βeta?
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βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement).
Puckle 26 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley
βeta?
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βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley
kiopo 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose flake on p1
βeta?
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βeta: Very loose flake on p1
samrad 19 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes.
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βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes.
IWasJack 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose.
Show beta
βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose.
climbingrev 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!)
Show beta
βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!)

Logged Ascents

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Votes cast 214
Votes cast 200
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
DWS
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
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DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
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Route of Interest
Avalanche

Grade: VD ***
(Y Lliwedd)

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