UKH

125m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An immaculate trip following the beautiful barrel on perfect rock. Large belay ledges and easy escape options make this route feel less committing than its Idwal Slab neighbours. The line seeks out the best rock on the buttress.
1) 30m. A 3-star pitch in its own right. Start below the pointed boulder and follow the groove, crack, then slab, to the bulge. Pass this on the left (tricky) and finish up the slab to a large belay ledge.
2) 35m. Wander left easily to reach the next true section of climbing. Take the broad rib direct via a crack to reach the rounded top.
3) 25m. Scramble rightwards to belay below the small roof in the right arete of the rib.
4) 35m. A fitting finale. Rock around the nose to a scoop. Head up and left on the front of the pillar then finish up the crack. An easier finish can be had to the right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Over to the left of Idwal Slabs past the descent route, on its own buttress. 4-6 pitches. Excellent, sustained climbing between good belay ledges. The long traverse pitch rightwards to reach the right arĂȘte is more of a walk/easy scramble.

J.M.Edwards 1931.

Ticklists

Menlove Routes, Snowdonia in Chains, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Mountain Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Disco LeMond 26 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement).
βeta?
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βeta: Loose flake very near the beginning of the first pitch (near first gear placement).
Puckle 26 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley
βeta?
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βeta: Great route on a sunny day in the Ogwen Valley
kiopo 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose flake on p1
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βeta: Very loose flake on p1
samrad 19 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes.
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βeta: Absolutely quality route at the grade. Seeing so many people queuing over on idwal slabs and we had this route to ourselves. It was super windy on the top pitch. Climbed in approach shoes.
IWasJack 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose.
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βeta: Two or three moves off the ground there is a slim vertical flake - it's very loose.
climbingrev 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!)
Show beta
βeta: P1 good value at grade (ie a bit harder than VDiff I think!)

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest

Flying Buttress

Grade: VD ***
(Dinas Cromlech)
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