Rockfax Description
An over top-roped training exercise, however it has some great moves and still packs a punch if led. The lower wall is a bit reachy and bold. At the break, chuck in a few fat runners and sprint to the top before your arms fade and the air welcomes you.
The wall to the left is Big Boris, E5 6a but a crucial bolt is missing. © Rockfax
FA. T.Proctor, C.Winfield (rests) 1967. FFA. A.Rouse 1971.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , Classic Lobs , Best Before 2025 , Sheffield
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Al Evans | 28 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: This was the definitive climb for a Moac, it has the best Moac placement in the Peak. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This was the definitive climb for a Moac, it has the best Moac placement in the Peak. |
||||
| Graham Hoey | 15 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: BETA ALERT..... The 'unprotected start' has a bomber RP2 in the bootom of a thin crack left of the 'ear' and a bigger RP towards the top of it! Bit strenuous to place. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: BETA ALERT..... The 'unprotected start' has a bomber RP2 in the bootom of a thin crack left of the 'ear' and a bigger RP towards the top of it! Bit strenuous to place. |
||||
| UKB Shark | 11 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The start has a highball 5c move stretching off a left hand sidepull having chosen from a selection of unnervingly polished footholds. Top wall is has bomber gear but runout and pumpy and use of knees to finish obligatory. When I first did it in 80's it was generally regarded as E4 then. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The start has a highball 5c move stretching off a left hand sidepull having chosen from a selection of unnervingly polished footholds. Top wall is has bomber gear but runout and pumpy and use of knees to finish obligatory. When I first did it in 80's it was generally regarded as E4 then. |
||||
| Alan James - Rockfax | 19 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The start described in the 1992 Rockfax was incorrect but how everyone seemed to be climbing it at the time, and probably still does. The true line is the one now described in Northern Limestone which does make the route a bit bolder at the bottom but it isn't actually much harder. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The start described in the 1992 Rockfax was incorrect but how everyone seemed to be climbing it at the time, and probably still does. The true line is the one now described in Northern Limestone which does make the route a bit bolder at the bottom but it isn't actually much harder. |
||||
| Nick Smith - Climbers | 7 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The old 1992 guide has Wee Doris traversing in from the crack on the right, while the latest Northern Limestone gives it an unprotected start direct through the pockets. Don't know how this changes the grade, as I've only led it with the original start. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The old 1992 guide has Wee Doris traversing in from the crack on the right, while the latest Northern Limestone gives it an unprotected start direct through the pockets. Don't know how this changes the grade, as I've only led it with the original start. |
||||
| Nick Smith - Climbers | 2 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb climbing, and not really that polished (for Stoney). Either run it out in a sprint for the top on increasingly good holds, or lace it with gear for the pump to end all pumps! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Superb climbing, and not really that polished (for Stoney). Either run it out in a sprint for the top on increasingly good holds, or lace it with gear for the pump to end all pumps! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Chameleon
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stanage Popular)