UKH

Rockfax Description
An over top-roped training exercise, however it has some great moves and still packs a punch if led. The lower wall is a bit reachy and bold. At the break, chuck in a few fat runners and sprint to the top before your arms fade and the air welcomes you.
The wall to the left is Big Boris, E5 6a but a crucial bolt is missing. © Rockfax

FA. T.Proctor, C.Winfield (rests) 1967. FFA. A.Rouse 1971.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade, Classic Lobs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Al Evans 28 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This was the definitive climb for a Moac, it has the best Moac placement in the Peak.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was the definitive climb for a Moac, it has the best Moac placement in the Peak.
Graham Hoey 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: BETA ALERT..... The 'unprotected start' has a bomber RP2 in the bootom of a thin crack left of the 'ear' and a bigger RP towards the top of it! Bit strenuous to place.
 
Show beta
βeta: BETA ALERT..... The 'unprotected start' has a bomber RP2 in the bootom of a thin crack left of the 'ear' and a bigger RP towards the top of it! Bit strenuous to place.
UKB Shark 11 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The start has a highball 5c move stretching off a left hand sidepull having chosen from a selection of unnervingly polished footholds. Top wall is has bomber gear but runout and pumpy and use of knees to finish obligatory. When I first did it in 80's it was generally regarded as E4 then.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The start has a highball 5c move stretching off a left hand sidepull having chosen from a selection of unnervingly polished footholds. Top wall is has bomber gear but runout and pumpy and use of knees to finish obligatory. When I first did it in 80's it was generally regarded as E4 then.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 19 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The start described in the 1992 Rockfax was incorrect but how everyone seemed to be climbing it at the time, and probably still does. The true line is the one now described in Northern Limestone which does make the route a bit bolder at the bottom but it isn't actually much harder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The start described in the 1992 Rockfax was incorrect but how everyone seemed to be climbing it at the time, and probably still does. The true line is the one now described in Northern Limestone which does make the route a bit bolder at the bottom but it isn't actually much harder.
Nick Smith - Climbers 7 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The old 1992 guide has Wee Doris traversing in from the crack on the right, while the latest Northern Limestone gives it an unprotected start direct through the pockets. Don't know how this changes the grade, as I've only led it with the original start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The old 1992 guide has Wee Doris traversing in from the crack on the right, while the latest Northern Limestone gives it an unprotected start direct through the pockets. Don't know how this changes the grade, as I've only led it with the original start.
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb climbing, and not really that polished (for Stoney). Either run it out in a sprint for the top on increasingly good holds, or lace it with gear for the pump to end all pumps!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb climbing, and not really that polished (for Stoney). Either run it out in a sprint for the top on increasingly good holds, or lace it with gear for the pump to end all pumps!

Logged Ascents

305 users have logged this
18 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 54
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Decadence

Grade: E4 6a ***
(High Tor)
Loading Notifications...