Rockfax Description
A direct line right of Helicon that sees few ascents. Very bold. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A bold route up the wall between Helicon and Rippemoff. Start as for Rippemoff but pull out right almost straight away onto a flake system. Follow this to the break (of Atropos) and reasonable gear. Pull though the bulge above on a creaking flake to the Pendulum break. Follow the thin crack above to crux moves at a thin flake before finishing direct.

Not known to have had many if any repeats and the finish requires cleaning before an ascent.

Neil Foster, Mark Pretty Nov/1983.

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User Date Notes
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 4 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a large flake above the first overlap, which isn’t actually used on the route, but would have probably killed the belayer if it had come off - hence is better off than on!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off a large flake above the first overlap, which isn’t actually used on the route, but would have probably killed the belayer if it had come off - hence is better off than on!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moonshine

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)

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