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150m, 4 pitches. Good climbing but escapable right into Goblin Gully. Start up and right of Slytherin towards the end of the buttress. Climb an icy groove, then turfy ground trending slightly right to a steep wall right of Slytherin’s icy groove (45m). Pull through the short overhanging wall, then trend rightwards up steep grooves to reach and cross snow and arrive at the base of the next tier (40m). Move right and climb a big icy groove before returning left to a spike (45m). Continue up the right side of the buttress and climb a left-slanting chimney-crack (difficult) to reach easy ground (20m). Snow for 50m reaches the top (not included in length).

Dan Bailey, Andy Nisbet, Steve Perry. 11/Feb/2015.

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Route of Interest

Tholl Gate

Grade: VI 6 ***
(Fuar Tholl)