Rockfax Description
(The Sami name for Stetind) Around 800m. The route starts below a corner system at the centre of the wall. The blank slab leading up to the corner was avoided on the first ascent due to snow which made it possible to reach small ledges followed by a few bold moves getting to the base of the corner.
1) N6+, 60m. Follow the corner that eventually becomes a thin crack. Climb this and make a traverse to the left under a hollow flake. Take the first exit through the roof (well protected) then continue a short way to a stance.
2) N7, 30m. Continue up the corner until it ends. Make a hard traverse out left to better footholds and a flake. A knife blade (not fixed) protects bold moves up to another corner system with good protection.
3) N5, 30m. Follow up the corner towards the big chimney.
4) N5, 35m. Climb through the chimney and belay on the top
5) N5-, 40m. Climb the slab slightly to the right and pass through and over some blocks to a ledge.
6) N5- 55m. Continue up the slab and along a series of flakes. Pass a hole in the wall and continue up to a good ledge.
7) N6, 60m. Traverse left on the ledge and aiming for a good looking corner. Climb up this and through the roof, leading to a crack. Follow this (spaced gear) to a good ledge on the left.
8) N5, 60m. Climb corners and cracks from the right end of the ledge, traverse left under the large roof then easy climbing leads to a big ledge.
9) N4, 60m. More easy ground to big ledges (1st 'Amfi').
10) N6+, 30m. From the highest point of the gallery (10m right of Guldfisken) make bold moves up a slab to a good crack. Follow this to a semi-hanging belay.
11) N6-, 50m. Continue up the crack to a ledge with loose blocks. Climb up the slab to a corner and make a delicate traverse out left to the base of a left facing corner system.
12) N6, 40m. Easy climbing up the left leaning groove that becomes a perfect crack. Climb this until it ends and make a move out right to a small ledge.
13) N6+, 30m. Continue up the groove to the right to a belay on a grassy ledge.
14) N6+ 30m. Climb the main groove and pass a big detached block to another ledge.
15) N6+, 60m. Trend left and up corners to a large overhang. Belay out right. From here, scramble up to the 2nd 'Amfi'.
16) N6+, 30m. The first part of the steep headwall - blocks and corners lead to a good ledge.
17) N7, 35m. Traverse right, then head up the steep crack (sustained)to a tricky exit and a good belay ledge.
18) N6, 25m. Climb left past loose blocks into a deep groove.
19) A0, 30m. Climb up through the final wall - wet, steep and vegetated. Continue to a large ledge and redemption. © Rockfax

FA. Andreas Widlund, Joda Dolmans 06.2023 15/Jun/2023.

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