Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left-facing flakes to a well protected finish. © Rockfax

FA. Dick Brown 1951.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage , Stanage HS Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 4 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A jolly fine little number - 2 star climbing and line, but a bit short. Pretty neat face climbing at the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A jolly fine little number - 2 star climbing and line, but a bit short. Pretty neat face climbing at the grade.
CurlyStevo 26 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I couldn't find any gear that would stop you decking for the crux lower middle section up the flakes (after the gear in the initial crack) There were some poor cams in horizontal cracks which pulled out when tested! I climbed back down and did something with gear! Felt like VS 4b to me!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I couldn't find any gear that would stop you decking for the crux lower middle section up the flakes (after the gear in the initial crack) There were some poor cams in horizontal cracks which pulled out when tested! I climbed back down and did something with gear! Felt like VS 4b to me!
Mutl3y 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Felt pretty exposed in the middle section and I managed to fall off the nightmare topout. Not what one normally expects of an HS...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt pretty exposed in the middle section and I managed to fall off the nightmare topout. Not what one normally expects of an HS...

Logged Ascents

1099 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 85 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 105
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 98
Votes cast 81
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress Direct

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...