Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the groove on the right to a ledge then the left-hand narrow crack above. Hard for the grade though the gear is good! © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dean.p.92 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute sandbag.
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βeta: Absolute sandbag.
Kovatsclimbing 30 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: When I looked up.... Said to my self....\'Hanna that is gonna be hard work! \'..... Again the little voice inside wasn\'t lieing. Been battered, bruised, fought with the dragon but eventually Hanna won. Ps: jamming is not my strength but found those tapered cracks exrutiatingly hard to accommodate any sort of jams. Perfect rout for a grit yogi!!!!!
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βeta: When I looked up.... Said to my self....'Hanna that is gonna be hard work! '..... Again the little voice inside wasn't lieing. Been battered, bruised, fought with the dragon but eventually Hanna won. Ps: jamming is not my strength but found those tapered cracks exrutiatingly hard to accommodate any sort of jams. Perfect rout for a grit yogi!!!!!
Richard 261 2 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Unbelievable! I agree with nearly all the above. This must be a first. This is a nasty route and shouldn't be attempted by a VS climber. I went on to lead Exit Stage Left, E15b immediately after, which I found easier. Thrombosis is at least HVS5b.
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βeta: Unbelievable! I agree with nearly all the above. This must be a first. This is a nasty route and shouldn't be attempted by a VS climber. I went on to lead Exit Stage Left, E15b immediately after, which I found easier. Thrombosis is at least HVS5b.
Fidget 2 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I only seconded this, but it seems like a serious sandbag at VS. I could barely hang on, and I didn't have to place any gear!
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βeta: I only seconded this, but it seems like a serious sandbag at VS. I could barely hang on, and I didn't have to place any gear!
The Grist 18 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is a seriously bad route to warm up on. Agree with all the above.
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βeta: This is a seriously bad route to warm up on. Agree with all the above.
Monk 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found this harder than Agony Crack. It is amazing how 6 metres of VS climbing can feel so hard! I used a full repetoire of laybacks and hand/fist jams on this route and it definitely felt hard. On the other hand - the gear is excellent.
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βeta: I found this harder than Agony Crack. It is amazing how 6 metres of VS climbing can feel so hard! I used a full repetoire of laybacks and hand/fist jams on this route and it definitely felt hard. On the other hand - the gear is excellent.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 6 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was desperate to jam and a good deal harder than File, Hell crack, Mutiny crack etc. Maybe layback is the way to go? HVS if not.
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βeta: I thought this was desperate to jam and a good deal harder than File, Hell crack, Mutiny crack etc. Maybe layback is the way to go? HVS if not.
JohnHutch 18 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Each time I thought I'd done the desperate bit, there was another! HVS surely.
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βeta: Each time I thought I'd done the desperate bit, there was another! HVS surely.
fenclimb 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Its easyer to layback
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βeta: Its easyer to layback
Offwidth 25 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Really hard but fortunately well protected. Arguably stiffer than Agony Crack next door.
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βeta: Really hard but fortunately well protected. Arguably stiffer than Agony Crack next door.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A tricky little VS if you can jam, and desperately hard if you can't!
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βeta: A tricky little VS if you can jam, and desperately hard if you can't!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 104
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mississippi Buttress Direct

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)

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