Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Start from a boulder and head right to a shallow groove. Climb this (again little in the way of gear) to an exit under the Needle. © Rockfax

FA. Nat Allen 1958.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mark Stevenson 22 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Is the FA info correct as the route is listed in Eric Byne's 1951 'Climbs on Gritstone 2, The Sheffild Area' guide? - "...A little to the right of Balcony Buttress is Green Needle Gully and then - NEEDLE CRACK 35ft Severe - A shallow winding crack up the centre of a small buttress."
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is the FA info correct as the route is listed in Eric Byne's 1951 'Climbs on Gritstone 2, The Sheffild Area' guide? - "...A little to the right of Balcony Buttress is Green Needle Gully and then - NEEDLE CRACK 35ft Severe - A shallow winding crack up the centre of a small buttress."

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Voting
High HVS
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Votes cast 33
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Votes cast 30
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Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eureka

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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