Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The pillar is climbed direct with tricky moves to leave the ground and a crux off the ledge. It is easier but a bit bolder above. © Rockfax
FA. Fergus Graham 1922.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , HVS Wishlist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Roxyclimbs | 14 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climb, well protected reachy crux, very light on the gear after that! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent climb, well protected reachy crux, very light on the gear after that! |
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| IOAN D | 10 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: an enjoyable route the tricky part at the ledge very well protected , but very streightforward after that but quite thin for gear | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: an enjoyable route the tricky part at the ledge very well protected , but very streightforward after that but quite thin for gear |
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| leon | 12 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: i thought the crux was the well protected move from the ledge. i didn't find any gear after the ledge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i thought the crux was the well protected move from the ledge. i didn't find any gear after the ledge. |
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| Skyfall | 23 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very much a soft touch in my view. More like VS than HVS. The supposed crux moves off the ledge are in fact well protected both by gear at foot level and by cams in the break higher up (a long stretch for the vertically challened admittedly). But very enjoyable climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very much a soft touch in my view. More like VS than HVS. The supposed crux moves off the ledge are in fact well protected both by gear at foot level and by cams in the break higher up (a long stretch for the vertically challened admittedly). But very enjoyable climbing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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East Rib
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shining Clough)