Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
The chimney in the left side of the bay can be climbed inside or outside of the chockstones. The subterranean route is more secure, and tight; the outer one is precarious and probably S 4b. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Easy Peak Chimneys , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fidget 3 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Just realised my last comment may have been misleading. When I said safe as houses, I didn't mean in terms of gear, I just meant it would be very hard to fall off or out of. I didn't look at the gear, although there are plenty of chockstones to thread!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just realised my last comment may have been misleading. When I said safe as houses, I didn't mean in terms of gear, I just meant it would be very hard to fall off or out of. I didn't look at the gear, although there are plenty of chockstones to thread!
Fidget 2 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I soloed the inside version of this at the weekend. Great fun, but safe as houses, and certainly not HVD! VD max I recon (one steep pull over the boulder at the top, but good foot ledges).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I soloed the inside version of this at the weekend. Great fun, but safe as houses, and certainly not HVD! VD max I recon (one steep pull over the boulder at the top, but good foot ledges).
Tubs 4 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is a great route but a joke at Severe, its about as hard as the Diff to the right of it. The 'VS' variation might just be worth S but you can sling the whole chockstone to give yourself a toprope! Does no-one know how to chimney?
Show beta
βeta: This is a great route but a joke at Severe, its about as hard as the Diff to the right of it. The 'VS' variation might just be worth S but you can sling the whole chockstone to give yourself a toprope! Does no-one know how to chimney?
victim of mathematics 11 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome fun. A classic of its type. Three stars if you like that sort of thing. None if you don't.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome fun. A classic of its type. Three stars if you like that sort of thing. None if you don't.
Tubs 3 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The outside route is pretty soft at S and has never been VS!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The outside route is pretty soft at S and has never been VS!
Jonathan T 2 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A glorious outing if you wind your way through the chockstones. Had me in stitches most of the way up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A glorious outing if you wind your way through the chockstones. Had me in stitches most of the way up.

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
N.M.C. Crack

Grade: HVD 4a ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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