Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The dark rift in traditional style to an awkward narrowing exit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage; Diffs on the cliffs , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Thrutch and Clutch , Stanage Chimney Tour , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage Solo , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , The Golden Age of Stanage Chimney’s , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Misery Mondays , Stanage Squeeze Challenge , Stanage 1956 , Stanage solos

Feedback

User Date Notes
DannyLamby 20 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: removed helmet half way through, gauge waistline and shoulders before setting off
Show beta
βeta: removed helmet half way through, gauge waistline and shoulders before setting off
HarriettRuth 18 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Left my helmet behind and one of Emma's boobs.
Show beta
βeta: Left my helmet behind and one of Emma's boobs.
Mich Mash 16 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Almost had to call mountain rescue, or look for person sized nut key. Must eat less pies!
Show beta
βeta: Almost had to call mountain rescue, or look for person sized nut key. Must eat less pies!
Rosie Green 12 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Recommend not wearing harness with random bits of gear on it when \'just nipping to the top\' to see how everyone was getting on.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Recommend not wearing harness with random bits of gear on it when 'just nipping to the top' to see how everyone was getting on.
PTNMC 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: No chance of that tiny exit, I diverted to what turned out to be the top half of Stay in the Light
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No chance of that tiny exit, I diverted to what turned out to be the top half of Stay in the Light
SuePearson 31 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice chimney, just when I was getting all concerned I remembered you are allowed to bridge the face!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really nice chimney, just when I was getting all concerned I remembered you are allowed to bridge the face!
fenclimb 22 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Im six foot one and stuggled to get into a position where I could get my legs though the hole :P fun route though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Im six foot one and stuggled to get into a position where I could get my legs though the hole :P fun route though
Dai 6 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Unless you're particularly small, don't try crawling through the hole at the back: you WILL get stuck. Definately don't try this trick at all if you're wearing a rack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unless you're particularly small, don't try crawling through the hole at the back: you WILL get stuck. Definately don't try this trick at all if you're wearing a rack.

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zig-zag

Grade: VD ***
(Kinder Downfall)

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