16m.

Rockfax Description
Set in the arete is this attractive groove. Enter this using an unhelpful set of scoured holds; frequently frustrating, though with good gear. Continue up the groove to a good ledge below an overhanging block. Overcome this at its left-hand corner by a short struggle or, if you have had enough, escape off to the left. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , frances Bday!

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User Date Notes
Ella Morris 27 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The start is as slippery as mud wrestling with a Moray Eel
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βeta: The start is as slippery as mud wrestling with a Moray Eel
CJHudson 17 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Polished start, fun mantle finish.
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βeta: Polished start, fun mantle finish.
Peterheaney 17 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Start is an absolute wrestling match, lovely climbing after that
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βeta: Start is an absolute wrestling match, lovely climbing after that
John Harrison 10 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First few moves are seriously polished, can get a low hex from the ground to protect first move. Past that the climb has lots of fun moves and a hard top out and good gear.
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βeta: First few moves are seriously polished, can get a low hex from the ground to protect first move. Past that the climb has lots of fun moves and a hard top out and good gear.
DannyLamby 24 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route once you get past the polished to hell start, maybe I\'ll come back for the lead some time
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βeta: Lovely route once you get past the polished to hell start, maybe I'll come back for the lead some time
freeheel47 9 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: slippy as a slippy thing greased up with slippy grease.
βeta?
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βeta: slippy as a slippy thing greased up with slippy grease.
THE.WALRUS 1 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: unbelievably slippy. probably best to get a piece of gear in to protect the first move.
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βeta: unbelievably slippy. probably best to get a piece of gear in to protect the first move.
Andi_FJ 30 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: took the right hand mantle onto the huge liing block, found it to be hard for the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: took the right hand mantle onto the huge liing block, found it to be hard for the grade.
NickLanderCMC 6 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There's a foothold for the left foot at the start reputed to be the slippiest bit of rock on Stanage - best avoided.
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βeta: There's a foothold for the left foot at the start reputed to be the slippiest bit of rock on Stanage - best avoided.
Fokka 2 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Polished start holds
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Polished start holds
Paul Tomo 6 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A slippy start for the foot hold but once past the first move it is plane sailing, plenty of gear if you need it,yes to a HVD.Paul Tomo
βeta?
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βeta: A slippy start for the foot hold but once past the first move it is plane sailing, plenty of gear if you need it,yes to a HVD.Paul Tomo
CurlyStevo 9 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: not much gear !!! My impression was it's a crack in a corner, with lots of other crack surrounding it. You can lace it with gear!!!
βeta?
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βeta: not much gear !!! My impression was it's a crack in a corner, with lots of other crack surrounding it. You can lace it with gear!!!
MattOwen 30 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A combination of polish and numb hands resulted in two falls on the first section - a few minutes and warmer hands later - nailed it third time. Lovely route, not much gear lower down though.
βeta?
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βeta: A combination of polish and numb hands resulted in two falls on the first section - a few minutes and warmer hands later - nailed it third time. Lovely route, not much gear lower down though.
Ander 13 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great
βeta?
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βeta: Great
gobbyduck 8 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: trickier than many a sever but once past the glass a straigtforward climb with much enjoyment.
βeta?
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βeta: trickier than many a sever but once past the glass a straigtforward climb with much enjoyment.
Jon Greengrass 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: spit on your hand rub the soles of your rock boots clean until they squeak. As long as you know how to jam the rest is easy.
βeta?
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βeta: spit on your hand rub the soles of your rock boots clean until they squeak. As long as you know how to jam the rest is easy.
victim of mathematics 9 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: mmm, lovely polish. Nice route once you get onto it though.
βeta?
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βeta: mmm, lovely polish. Nice route once you get onto it though.
Simon Caldwell 7 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The Emperor's new clothes....
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βeta: The Emperor's new clothes....

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 463
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 414
Votes cast 420
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bishop's Route

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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