There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Set in the arete is this attractive groove. Enter this using an unhelpful set of scoured holds; frequently frustrating, though with good gear. Continue up the groove to a good ledge below an overhanging block. Overcome this at its left-hand corner by a short struggle or, if you have had enough, escape off to the left. © Rockfax
Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak
User | Date | Notes | ||
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CJHudson | 17 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Polished start, fun mantle finish. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Polished start, fun mantle finish. |
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Peterheaney | 17 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Start is an absolute wrestling match, lovely climbing after that | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Start is an absolute wrestling match, lovely climbing after that |
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John Harrison | 10 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First few moves are seriously polished, can get a low hex from the ground to protect first move. Past that the climb has lots of fun moves and a hard top out and good gear. | ||
Show beta
βeta: First few moves are seriously polished, can get a low hex from the ground to protect first move. Past that the climb has lots of fun moves and a hard top out and good gear. |
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DannyLamby | 24 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route once you get past the polished to hell start, maybe I\'ll come back for the lead some time | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route once you get past the polished to hell start, maybe I'll come back for the lead some time |
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freeheel47 | 9 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: slippy as a slippy thing greased up with slippy grease. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: slippy as a slippy thing greased up with slippy grease. |
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THE.WALRUS | 1 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: unbelievably slippy. probably best to get a piece of gear in to protect the first move. | ||
Show beta
βeta: unbelievably slippy. probably best to get a piece of gear in to protect the first move. |
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Andi_FJ | 30 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: took the right hand mantle onto the huge liing block, found it to be hard for the grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: took the right hand mantle onto the huge liing block, found it to be hard for the grade. |
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NickLanderCMC | 6 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's a foothold for the left foot at the start reputed to be the slippiest bit of rock on Stanage - best avoided. | ||
Show beta
βeta: There's a foothold for the left foot at the start reputed to be the slippiest bit of rock on Stanage - best avoided. |
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Fokka | 2 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Polished start holds | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Polished start holds |
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Paul Tomo | 6 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A slippy start for the foot hold but once past the first move it is plane sailing, plenty of gear if you need it,yes to a HVD.Paul Tomo | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A slippy start for the foot hold but once past the first move it is plane sailing, plenty of gear if you need it,yes to a HVD.Paul Tomo |
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CurlyStevo | 9 Dec, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: not much gear !!! My impression was it's a crack in a corner, with lots of other crack surrounding it. You can lace it with gear!!! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: not much gear !!! My impression was it's a crack in a corner, with lots of other crack surrounding it. You can lace it with gear!!! |
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MattOwen | 30 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A combination of polish and numb hands resulted in two falls on the first section - a few minutes and warmer hands later - nailed it third time. Lovely route, not much gear lower down though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A combination of polish and numb hands resulted in two falls on the first section - a few minutes and warmer hands later - nailed it third time. Lovely route, not much gear lower down though. |
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Ander | 13 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great |
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gobbyduck | 8 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: trickier than many a sever but once past the glass a straigtforward climb with much enjoyment. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: trickier than many a sever but once past the glass a straigtforward climb with much enjoyment. |
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Jon Greengrass | 25 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: spit on your hand rub the soles of your rock boots clean until they squeak. As long as you know how to jam the rest is easy. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: spit on your hand rub the soles of your rock boots clean until they squeak. As long as you know how to jam the rest is easy. |
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victim of mathematics | 9 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: mmm, lovely polish. Nice route once you get onto it though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: mmm, lovely polish. Nice route once you get onto it though. |
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Simon Caldwell | 7 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The Emperor's new clothes.... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The Emperor's new clothes.... |
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Laddow)