Rockfax Description
Set in the arete is this attractive groove. Enter this using an unhelpful set of scoured holds; frequently frustrating, though with good gear. Continue up the groove to a good ledge below an overhanging block. Overcome this at its left-hand corner by a short struggle or, if you have had enough, escape off to the left. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Stanage Green Spot Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Ella Morris | 27 Jul |
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βeta: The start is as slippery as mud wrestling with a Moray Eel | βeta? | |
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βeta: The start is as slippery as mud wrestling with a Moray Eel |
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| CJHudson | 17 Apr |
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βeta: Polished start, fun mantle finish. | ||
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βeta: Polished start, fun mantle finish. |
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| Peterheaney | 17 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Start is an absolute wrestling match, lovely climbing after that | βeta? | |
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βeta: Start is an absolute wrestling match, lovely climbing after that |
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| John Harrison | 10 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: First few moves are seriously polished, can get a low hex from the ground to protect first move. Past that the climb has lots of fun moves and a hard top out and good gear. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: First few moves are seriously polished, can get a low hex from the ground to protect first move. Past that the climb has lots of fun moves and a hard top out and good gear. |
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| DannyLamby | 24 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Lovely route once you get past the polished to hell start, maybe I\'ll come back for the lead some time | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely route once you get past the polished to hell start, maybe I'll come back for the lead some time |
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| freeheel47 | 9 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: slippy as a slippy thing greased up with slippy grease. | βeta? | |
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βeta: slippy as a slippy thing greased up with slippy grease. |
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| THE.WALRUS | 1 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: unbelievably slippy. probably best to get a piece of gear in to protect the first move. | ||
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βeta: unbelievably slippy. probably best to get a piece of gear in to protect the first move. |
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| Andi_FJ | 30 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: took the right hand mantle onto the huge liing block, found it to be hard for the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: took the right hand mantle onto the huge liing block, found it to be hard for the grade. |
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| NickLanderCMC | 6 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: There's a foothold for the left foot at the start reputed to be the slippiest bit of rock on Stanage - best avoided. | ||
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βeta: There's a foothold for the left foot at the start reputed to be the slippiest bit of rock on Stanage - best avoided. |
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| Fokka | 2 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Polished start holds | βeta? | |
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βeta: Polished start holds |
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| Paul Tomo | 6 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A slippy start for the foot hold but once past the first move it is plane sailing, plenty of gear if you need it,yes to a HVD.Paul Tomo | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A slippy start for the foot hold but once past the first move it is plane sailing, plenty of gear if you need it,yes to a HVD.Paul Tomo |
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| CurlyStevo | 9 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: not much gear !!! My impression was it's a crack in a corner, with lots of other crack surrounding it. You can lace it with gear!!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: not much gear !!! My impression was it's a crack in a corner, with lots of other crack surrounding it. You can lace it with gear!!! |
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| MattOwen | 30 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: A combination of polish and numb hands resulted in two falls on the first section - a few minutes and warmer hands later - nailed it third time. Lovely route, not much gear lower down though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A combination of polish and numb hands resulted in two falls on the first section - a few minutes and warmer hands later - nailed it third time. Lovely route, not much gear lower down though. |
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| Ander | 13 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Great | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great |
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| gobbyduck | 8 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: trickier than many a sever but once past the glass a straigtforward climb with much enjoyment. | βeta? | |
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βeta: trickier than many a sever but once past the glass a straigtforward climb with much enjoyment. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 25 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: spit on your hand rub the soles of your rock boots clean until they squeak. As long as you know how to jam the rest is easy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: spit on your hand rub the soles of your rock boots clean until they squeak. As long as you know how to jam the rest is easy. |
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| victim of mathematics | 9 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: mmm, lovely polish. Nice route once you get onto it though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: mmm, lovely polish. Nice route once you get onto it though. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 7 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: The Emperor's new clothes.... | βeta? | |
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βeta: The Emperor's new clothes.... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Balcony Buttress
Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)